Wednesday, June 14, 2017
The Decay of Industry
Monday, June 5, 2017
Post Trekking Emotions
Saturday, June 3, 2017
Thamel, Kathmandu
Out shopping for trinkets/gifts. I realized I needed to eat. It's noon and I haven' had a bite yet. So here I am at Phat Kath, one of many small cafes in Thamal. I ordered an affogato (ice cream with espresso poured over it, a banana lassie and a gallette (some sort of savory buckwheat pancake). There is music playing, the ever present sound of construction and I sit in the shade of some sore of citrus tree.
It would bo so easy to fall into a life of travel to such places. Life outside the USA can be so much more affordable. And there is so much of the planet to yet see. Let's see what this year brings....
The Great Unraveling
Here I sit in the New Panda Hotel. Most of the people I spent the past 3 weeks with are at the airport. I was in the Hotel Shanker last night and will depart from there to the airport in the morning. But for my last night I have opted to drop $15 for a room rather then $100. I still have some last minute shopping to do but nothing more pressing, perhaps a massage.
Last night was the final party or the Marathon participants. A good number of them (the tent campers) were stuck in Lukla due to weather and missed it. It largely consisted of big cocktail party in the garden and dinner in the hotel ballroom simultaneously. People drank, some too much. Some odd angers emerged and there were some emotional fireworks here and there, but nothing beyond salvage.
It feels so odd seeing the few people I did this morning wandering about in a fog. Most have left. Of those remaining almost all will be gone by today. The tight knit family is now dissolved. People are on their way back to their normal reality and the trek is a memory. I was a bit subdued he final day of trekking as I really didn't want it to end. But all things do.
Thursday, June 1, 2017
Attrition
Last day at EBC (Everest Base Camp) Of course by the time I can publish this I'll Be drinking beer at Namche Bazar abd the race will be over. Today though has been eventful. It was a rest day for acclimatization. The only scheduled event was a moc-start for photos and such. I didn't sleep well last night so by 5:30 I was too restless to remain in my sleeping bag so I got up and watched the Scottsman begin his ultramarathon from EBC to Kathmandu. He's doing most of it unsupported and for charity. That was at 06:00. On the way back to the tent I took loads to photos of the Kumbu and base camp. Not long after that the helicopters begin runs high up on Everest to recover bodies. I don't know how many they recovered but their flying was impressive. You can hear the rotors struggling to grab enough air to remain aloft. Up they would go following the ice Fall before disappearing. I thought that was it for the excitement until I learned two of our team were to be air-lifted to lower elevations. Both had significant altitude issues: one pulmonary edema and one cerebral edema. They should both be fine but had they remained another night at this altitude things could have been disastrous.
Tomorrow is the event and I am much more confident that I was going into this. Serious hikers share many skills with trail runners. A significant number of participants here are road runners. I am pairing up with a Dutch Woman who is a good trail runner but whose GPS died. She is also planning to do this as a fast trek, and since I have a better than average sense of direction (Mt Baldy in '03 aside) it should be good paring.
Tenzing Hillary Everest marathon.... Race day
Our last night at EBC was cold and punctuated by avalanches. It's a curious thing, too dark to see where they are, and knowing a number of hanging sceracs still threaten EBC. Around 2 AM I walked the short distance to the squatty potty tent. Finding my way back to our sleeping tent was an interesting experience. It is absolutely dark, the ground is uneven and frozen, I was doing my best not to shine my headlamp into other participants. Race day morning the weather was beautiful. We had breakfast at 5 AM for a 7AM start.
Only ate about half my porrage and as it goes ate very little during the run. The beginning was a bit of a clusterufck. Joan and I waited toward the back on the pack since we were planning to trek the course. That was a bit of a mistake. The section out of EBC is the sketchiest of the entire run. There re many icy spots to negotiate and apparently many road runners are kind of feaked out by that. I figure we lost 15 to 20 minutes easy just escaping EBC. Once o our way it was just a steady fast walk. We only stopped at the checkpoints and grabbed water at the same time. It's strange taking several days gaining altitude and distance only to cover the same ground in hours. Partnering with Joan was fantastic. I pushed her early on by setting a pretty fast pace. Then, late in the day at the two final uphill stretches she challenged me. There is no way I'd have been as fast alone.
So, yes this was a marathon. But I always was open that I was fast trekking ad not running it. I was hoping to finish in under 12 hours. As it so happens we completed the course in under 10 hours! During the run, a Finn couple in our group, Joan and I had passed and been passed by several times told us "You hike really
fast. We've been staring at your backside from 300 meters for a very long time!"
So the race was a success. I still feel like I completely screwed up my packing and prep but we went fast and were complemented by many of the runners. I suppose I under valued the skill sets hikers have that can give them an edge over road runners.
I am so happy I did this! I may well do it again in the future. What a fantastic way to live!!