Sunday’s
are our one day off, so they are generally good days. A short while back I spent all day with a
friend who has made himself something of an expert on tribal rugs. We went to the outskirts of the city to look
at furniture workshops. Here, when a
house is torn down, they don’t just crush everything and toss it in a dumpster. They dismantle all the carved wooden doors
and window pieces and save what can be reused.
These are then turned into furniture: cabinets, shelving, tables. All
very cool stuff. So we went to the
outskirts of Islamabad to where they take these pieces and reuse them. Some of the items in these workshops are
antiques in their own right and will be sold as is. Old children’s beds, spinning wheels,
chests. The most amazing pieces are the
very large door frames. These can easily
be 13 ft high and 10 ft wide and intricately carved. I’d love to pick one of these up but shipping
it to the states would be something of a challenge. I like that these everyday, very artistic
pieces are being reused. In America we
tend to tear down buildings and scrap it all.
I remember when they did that to the Beacon Street Hotel in my hometown,
marble and hardwood floors were just destroyed in the interest of tearing the
building down quickly, so that the lot could remain vacant for 30+ years. Some of the workshops we saw had pieces
obviously not old, but made to look older by weathering them. The rest of that day was spent in various
carpet shops. There is one piece that I
really like. It is not cheap
though. It’s a 3’ by 10’ runner they are
asking $1800 for. It’s Turkmen, quite
old, very nice. I’ll probably get
it. Damn. Addiction is such an ugly word… I prefer
fondness. I am fond of rugs. One of my room mates commented today on my
traveling out to the fringes of the city to look at old shit. He mentioned that I seem to still have the
very young sense of curiosity/adventure.
Yup. I hope I never out grow
that. When I stop being curious, it’s
time to lie down and die.
And with that in mind the Turkmen we went to look at
furniture workshops with that day sees no reason I shouldn’t travel anywhere I
like. He said even Afghanistan was much
safer now than it was last time I was there in 2009. He thinks I should definitely see the
northern areas of Pakistan as well as Lahore.
It’s interesting to me that most of the carpet and furniture vendors
here are Turkmen and not Pashtun or Punjabi.
They all think I should visit Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan and
Tajikistan. I think I need to visit all
of them in the not too distant future.
Turkmen are pretty easy to spot here.
They typically have light skin, almond eyes and often grey eye
color. The ones born up north are also
generally well educated. I find I like
them though they can be opinionated and a bit bigoted toward Pashtuns and
Punjabis. Funny, I find myself drawn to
a part of the world that was never taught to us in schools. These are the lands that were big blank spots
in the history books we read in high school.
We were taught that Marco Polo left Venice, traveled through Anatolia
and was then transported miraculously to the court of the Kublai Khan. The majority of his journey is completely
ignored even though he was traveling through cities vastly older than
Venice.
So anyway, I think I’ll be purchasing some furniture while I
am here. I don’t yet know how I’ll ship
it but having furniture made from much older furnishings has a draw I can’t
ignore.
Love your post. I'd like to know where these workshops are in Islamabad as I'm based in Lahore and not too familiar with the capital city.
ReplyDeleteCurious to know if you were able to ship these gems back home?
Sorry Zaynab, I haven't checked the blog comments in some time. I was bale to ship a few jollys home. I didn't buy too much but some of my friends did. No real issues shipping, my bronzes are another story. :( The workshops are sort of scattered about. One was PakTurk but thatone may have closed. Several were near the east side where the motorway splits off for Peshawar. If you are still interested let me know and I'll try to get better details. Take care.
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