Hello From Lobuche!

Welcome from Lobuche! We are spending the night on the other side of the moraine from the bottom reaches of the Khumbu glacier.   We hiked here from Dingbuche.  Now that we are here many in the group are really feeling the elevation.  For whatever reason I feel amazing though.  One of the group commented tonight that it was nice watching how happy I am at just being here.  The closer we gt to he run the less anxious I am about fast trekking 26.2 miles from 17,600 ft.  After we arrived at our lodge my roommate and I hiked up to the top of the moraine and debated walking down to the glacier.  It looks very strange here because after melting so much the top is nearly uniformly covered in rocks and dirt.  But look closely and ice cliffs are visible.  As we looked at possible routes down we were​ distracted by the amazing views and kept going further up stream along the top of the moraine.  Eventually we stopped and while taking it all in began to hear the crack and crash of movent coming from the glacier below...  such a good thing we didn't go down there!  It seems atop the moraine we were at 15,600 ft! 

On the way here, above Thukla are the climbers memorials.  These are stacks of stone or boulders with plaques affixed.  These are the shrines to the many dead taken by Everest over the years.  I knew we would be seeing these and we were told it would be an emotional part of our day.  I don't generally feel too emotional when climbers or clients die.  Frankly, it is and has always been part of the business of climbing dangerous peaks.  So I approached these with the thought of reading the plaques and taking some photos... not tacky selfies as many trekkers were given to.  As I passed one particular memorial I was overcome with emotion and began sobbing.  It was no one I have heard of but I couldn't detach from it.  I took a photo of the plaque and will look up the climber when I return home.  after that a number of the stone monuments had that effect on me.  I was walking around reading the details of these past climbers and openly weeping.  There was another plaque that mentioned a climber who perished on the descent and named the sherpa who held the man as he died.  That place had a much larger impact on me then I could have imagined.    

   

One World Trekking Itinerary

For those of you really curious about where we will be on any given day below is our itinerary.  I have shortened it a wee bit but it’s still a pretty long read.  Rest assured I will be taking many photos and taking notes. 

I have been asked what I was feeling about this trip and the first answer that sprang to mind is that I feel as if I am going home!  J

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu.  Check into hotel.   Brief orientation of the Kathmandu area.  Suck up the jet lag.

Day 2: Morning sightseeing tour around Kathmandu & afternoon race meeting at event hotel.  After breakfast, we’ll have a half-day guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu. Our tour will include visits to a few of the city’s major cultural, religious and historical sites, such as Boudhanath Stupa, the country’s largest Buddhist stupa, the Pashupatinath Temple of Shiva on the banks of Bagmati River which is the holiest Hindu temple in Nepal and the hilltop shrine of Swayambhunath more famously known as the ‘Monkey Temple’. Kathmandu is seeped in medieval history and architecture, where myths and legends blend seamlessly and modernism and traditional coexist in stark harmony.  After lunch, there will be a race meeting in the hotel lobby and briefing on the upcoming trek to the Mount Everest Base Camp and marathon. After the meeting the remainder of the day is free for resting and making final preparations for the journey into the Khumbu.

Day 3: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Phakding Village. Approximately 45 minute flight to Lukla at 9,184 feet followed by a 3 hour hike to Phakding at 8,699 feet.  The group will fly to Lukla on a regularly scheduled commercial plane for the spectacular and panoramic flight north to Lukla. Upon arrival, you will be met by your trekking guide and have some time to enjoy a cup of tea and wander around the village while your Sherpa crew prepares the various loads of group gear for the porters.  The walk to Phakding Village is gradual most of the way, with only a few uphill sections after the Tarhe Khola River, where we get superb views of Kusum Kangru (20,890 feet / 6,369 meters). After crossing a short suspension bridge, we encounter a short climb that brings us to Ghat Village.  Another 1.5 hours of gradual hiking brings us to Phakding Village where we will spend the night at a lodge. Distance: 4.5 miles, Ascent: 590 feet, Descent: 1,675 feet. 

Day 4: To Namche Bazaar. 11,283 feet. 5 to 6 hours of trekking.  Leaving the village of Phakding, and after crossing a suspension bridge spanning the Dudh Kosi River, the walk is pleasant with only a few short, steep uphill and downhill sections. Once we pass through the village of Benkar, there are  magnificent views of Thermasarkhu (21,675 feet / 6,608 meters) and we will now start to encounter other trekking groups on this busy section of trail leading up to the small village of Monjo at 9,200 feet.  A short while out of Monjo we come to the entrance of the Sagarmatha National Park, where our trekking permits will be checked. From here a short descent and a gradual walk brings us to another suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi River and the village of Jorsalle. This is the last village and the only place to shop until Namche Bazaar.  We now follow a river bed trail to a bridge over the Imja Tse River and then along the winding uphill path to Namche Bazaar. As you climb higher the peaks of Kwangde and Kusum Kangru are seen. Then the Mount Everest-Nuptse Wall, Lhotse and Taweche Peak come into view. A 1 to 2 hour uphill hike brings us to the famed capital of the Khumbu - Namche Bazaar, situated in an impressive U-shaped amphitheater bowl.  Distance: 7.5 miles, Ascent: 3,940 feet, Descent: 1,380 feet.

Day 5: Rest and acclimatization day at Namche Bazaar.  Short hike and sightseeing, we’ll use today for relaxing and gaining some well needed acclimatization. 

Day 6: Trek to Khumjung Village. 12,430 feet. 3 hours of trekking.  After a great time at Namche Bazaar, we continue on a trail taking us above Namche, past the airstrip of Syangboche and on to Khunde and Khumjung in the Green Valley.  Khumjung is the largest Sherpa village in the Khumbu area. The first one and half hours of walking is all uphill and quite strenuous. We’ll have magnificent views of Kwangde, Thermasarkhu and other peaks with an aerial view down to Namche Bazaar. Upon reaching the small airstrip of Syangboche, we make a short climb to the village of Khunde, wonderfully situated beneath the sacred peak of Mount Khumbila. Beyond Khunde, a gentle path leads us to the quiet and sleepy village of Khumjung and our overnight campsite. In the afternoon we can go back to Khunde and visit a hospital built with the help of the Sir Edmund Hillary's Foundation and visit Khumjung’s old monastery, the only place believed to have a Yeti scalp. Khumjung also has a high school built with the help of the Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation.

Day 7: Trek to Deboche. 12,535 feet.  5 hours of trekking.  This morning’s trail is a winding path with great views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam (the Mother’s Charm). In the village of Shanasa, we have a chance of seeing the colorful Danphe Pheasant, the national bird of Nepal. From Shanasa, the trial descends to the small settlement of Phungitenga (10,660ft), a small settlement with couple of teahouses along the Imja Tse River. The walk from here is gradually uphill along a winding trail for about two hours to Tengboche, one of the most beautiful villages in the Nepal. The first thing that comes to your eye is the big monastery or gompa, then the large field with campsites, teahouses and lodges situated beneath the shapely and beautiful peak of Ama Dablam.  Mount Everest looms in the distance above the Nuptse Wall, Lhotse and Lhotse Shar. A further descent of 30 minutes leads through a beautiful forest of rhododendron, birch and pine to the small hamlet of Deboche. 

Day 8: Trek to Dingboche. 14,432 feet. 5 to 6 hours of trekking.  After a wonderful overnight at Deboche, the trail crosses a small bridge over the narrow gorge of the Imja Tse River and begins its slow uphill journey past a large mani wall gate to upper Pangboche Village and its old monastery. We now have a short climb to our lunch spot at Shomare. After lunch, we continue gradually east towards the towering north face of Ama Dablam. We eventually enter the Imja Tse Valley situated beneath the mighty peaks of Ama Dablam, Nuptse and Lhotse and finally arrive in the village of Dingboche.  Dingboche is a beautiful patchwork of fields enclosed by stone walls that protect the crops of barley, buckwheat and potatoes from the cold winds and grazing animals.  Dingboche has about ten teahouses and lodges and also serves as the gateway to the Chhukung and Hinko valleys as well as the world’s fifth highest mountain – Makalu.

Day 9: Acclimatization day at Dingboche.  An optional day for a hike. The walk to Chhukung Village at (15,514 feet) is a worthwhile objective and takes about 3 to 4 hours.  Chhukung is home to about five teahouses overlooking the snow capped peaks and glaciers of Lhotse, Ama-Dablam and Imja Glacier. Chhukung is the last inhabited settlement in eastern Khumbu.

 Day 10: Trek to Lobuche. 16,164 feet. Via Dugla. 5 hours of trekking.  From Dingboche our trail leads us north with the path ascending gradually for about 40 to 50 minutes as you approach a stupa with mani prayer wheels. From here it’s a gentle trail across a rock-strewn meadow overlooking Pheriche Village, situated at an elevation of 14,009 feet. After a pleasant walk of 1.5 to 2 hours the trail reaches Dugla (also shown on maps as Thugla) after crossing a small wooden bridge over the raging Khumbu glacial river. From here a steep 1 hour walk will take us to a resting spot that showcases Everest and other prominent neighboring Himalayan peaks. A gradual ascent of 1.5 to 2 hours brings us to Lobuche. The village actually comes as some surprise, as Lobuche is a very tiny yak herder settlement, well hidden and sheltered from the wind. Distance: 5 miles, Ascent: 2,100 feet.

Day 11: Trek to Gorakshep at 16,990 feet.  Optional hike up Kala Pattar (18,200 feet) in the afternoon.  We spend the first hour of hiking gradually gaining elevation along a wide grassy field. At the end of the grassy field, we encounter a short steep climb of about 20 minutes and then continue along the side of the Khumbu Glacier on a straight-forward rocky moraine path. Topping out on the last uphill section, the fabulous mountain setting makes us realize why we came! We are now what seems to be a stones throw from Mount Everest, Nuptse and the domed summit of Pumori.  Gorakshep is a small cluster of lodges and teashops situated on a flat and rocky field below the famous viewpoint peak of Kala Pattar. Back in the early 1950s, Gorakshep served as the base camp for many Everest Expeditions.  After settling in and having lunch, the day’s adventure continues with a hike (optional) to Kala Pattar, the famous viewpoint peak on the southwest ridge of Mount Pumori.  After a short stroll out of camp, you begin a steep 45 minute climb to a level bench.  From this bench, it is about 1.5 to 2 hours to the top. The hard effort will be worth it.  Standing on top, with hundreds of prayer flags flying, the small rocky summit of Kala Pattar overlooks the towering face of Mount Pumori. Across the glacial valley, Everest looks within a stones throw away, situated majestically between the summit of Nuptse and Lhotse. Take lots of photos before we begin the descent back to Gorakshep and our lodge.

Day 12: Rest and acclimatization day at Gorakshep. Optional hike up Kala Pattar (18,200 feet).  A full day at 16,990 feet for rest and acclimatization.

Day 13: Continue to Mount Everest Base Camp and Khumbu Icefall at 17,515 feet. 3 to 4 hours of trekking.  Today is a BIG DAY, as we trek to the foot of the world’s highest mountain!  Our adventure continues to Everest Base Camp and the Khumbu Icefall. Once out of Gorakshep, the path can be misleading, so please follow your Sherpa guides. Every year the trail changes some due to the movements of the glacier. The hike from Gorakshep to Base Camp is short but is quite strenuous due to the high altitude.  During our visit, Everest Base Camp will be quite lively with commotion as this is the high expedition season. Upon reaching the foot of The Big E, a great view of the Khumbu icefall awaits you. After some time visiting this historic place, we will settle into our camp for the next two nights. For those of you not making it to Kala Pattar yesterday afternoon, you will have a chance to do so early this morning before heading the Everest Base Camp. 

Day 14: At Everest Base Camp.  This is our preparation and acclimatization day at Everest Base Camp for tomorrow’s trail running challenge. A short practice run will be held after breakfast with runners fully attired and in their official marathon t-shirt for our group photo. Later in the day we will be joined by a number of Nepali runners running in the marathon.

MAY 29: Day 15: RACE DAY! The Tenzing-Hillary Everest Marathon We’ll receive an early wakeup call for breakfast. Around first light, at 7am, the starting gun goes off and you begin by negotiating the first 5K section of the run across Khumbu Glacier to Gorakshep. This will prove to be the most difficult section of the race underfoot and trail conditions improve from here. By the time you reach the halfway point at Orsho, you’ll definitely begin to notice the thicker air (more oxygen) and this should come as a big mental and physical boost. The next big challenge will be the 1,650 foot climb from the bridge at Phungitenga (Mile 21) to Khunde Village.  The trail now continues downhill via the Hillary School and Syangboche Village to the finishing banner at Namche Bazaar.  Each runner’s personal baggage will be brought from Everest Base Camp to Namche Bazaar by our porters who will arrive later today.  Note: The marathon course includes a 6K loop from Dingboche to Bibre en route to Namche Bazaar.

Day 16: To Monjo. 9,299 feet. 3 to 4 hours of trekking.  After a late breakfast, we’ll have a leisurely, mostly downhill walk to Monjo. 

Day 17: Trek to Lukla. 9,184 feet. 5 hours of trekking.  The last day of this great trek has arrived.  On this good path to Lukla, you can walk at your own pace and enjoy the scenery and small villages. Apart from few short uphill sections, the only long climb will be just before reaching Lukla (of course!) and will take approximately 45 minutes from a place called Choplung. Tonight at our lodge we’ll enjoy a celebratory ‘Thank You’ dinner with our Nepali staff.

Day 18: Fly to Kathmandu. Hotel.  Our flights back to Kathmandu are usually scheduled for the morning. Upon arriving back at the Kathmandu domestic terminal, you will be met by our local agent and transferred back to the group hotel. 

Day 19: Free day in Kathmandu. Group celebration dinner.  Today you are free to spend as you wish.  One suggestion is to wander the maze of streets in Thamel to people watch, souvenir shopping or just drink a beer at a rooftop restaurant. In the evening we will have a group celebration dinner. This day may also be needed as cushion in case the flight from Lukla is delayed. We don’t want to miss our international connections.