Africa Itinerary.... or at least what I know right now

Sorting gear for the trip

Well, tis the day before flying and all through the house… it’s total chaos!  Oops, guess I blew that rhyme.  LOL  So, I have my tickets and main treks locked down.  I am finalizing packing.  Unfortunately I need somewhat different gear for each trek.  So I’ll see how much I can pare down here in a moment.  It did occur to me that I should provide what I have of an itinerary.  It is scant at the moment as I have about 2 weeks to plan once I get to Africa.  So here goes:

Fly out early morning 12/30 arriving 29 hours later in Entebbe, Uganda at 23:00.  I booked an air BnB for the night.  The next day I may remain in Entebbe or move up to Kampala, I am not sure yet.  On Tuesday the 2^nd, I need to be in Kampala to pay for the trek to Mt Stanley.  I’ll probably spend the night there and head to the starting point on the 3^rd.  I am thinking I’ll take a bus rather than hire a car or fly.  That will be an all day trip.  Here are the details on the 1^st climb:

The trek to Margherita peak departs on 5th January 2018.  I am joining a group of 4 other folks I have never met. 

Day  1.  (Jan 5^th)  At Trekkers hostel kilembe the base camp at 1450 meters. briefing from the guides and start the trek to sleep at Sine Camp 2596 meters following a height gain of 1146 meters.

Day  2. Hike to Mutinda camp at 3688 meters, 7km 6 to 7 hrs of walking giving you a height gain of 1092 metres. in the afternoon at Mutinda one may wish to climb up Mutinda look out at 3975 metres of which apart from offering breathtaking views and it gives you good acclimatization since you would be continuing higher to the summit at 5109m 

Day 3. Hike to Bugata camp at 4100 meters, 6.93km 4 to 6hours of walking with a height gain of 412 meters through the valley of amazingly unique beautiful plant species, streams and waterfalls while we head to Bugata camp at 4100 meters. the trek gets tougher and exhausting with the steep ridges,mud and boggy sections, high steps but the rewards are enormously beautiful.

Day 4. Hike to Hunwick’s camp at 3974 meters, via Bamwanjara pass at 4450meters having excellent views of the main peaks whilst the trek.  6 to 10hrs of walking

Day 5. Hike to Margherita camp at 4485 meters, passing down and across the valley floor to Lake Kitandara which is very stunning with deep water and beautiful vegetation, climbing through Scoot Elliot pass to Margherita camp. 3 to 5 hrs 

Day 6. Wake up at 2:00am and have an early breakfast and setoff to climb Mt Stanley going through its glaciers to the summit of Margherita peak at 5109metres 3.5km, 5 to 7 hours. After the summit we will descend  down to Hunwicks camp at 3974 meters for the night. This is the longest day.4 to 6hours

Day 7. Descend down to Kiharo camp at 3640 meters through Oliver’s pass . overnight at Kiharo camp set in a deep valley with high cliffs and dense vegetation  7 to 10hrs of walking

Day 8. Descend down down hill past the moss covered rocks along rivers and beautiful forests back to the basecamp in Kilembe,13km 7 to 9hrs of walking Debrief and refresh.

I will head back to Kampala on the 13^th.  From the 14^th to the 24^th I have some planning to do.  I am going to visit Zanzibar and possibly go on a safari or two.  Uganda is a great place to see Gorillas and Kenya is fantastic for big game and the savanna.  After bouncing around East Africa for a bit I have to be in Moshi, Tanzania on the 24^th.  My Kilimanjaro trek begins the following day.  Here is the itinerary:

Day 1 : 25^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Lemosho Trailhead (2,000m/6,600ft) to Big Tree Camp (2,800m/9,100ft)  

Elevation Gain:  800 metres / 2,500 feet

This morning you will drive from Moshi to the Londorossi gate, taking approximately 3 hours.   Here you will complete entry formalities. From Londorossi your drive continues for around 1 hour to the Lemosho trailhead along a 4WD track. Upon arrival at the trailhead you will eat lunch and then commence trekking through lush undisturbed forest where you may be lucky enough to see Colobus monkeys.  The path undulates, steeply in places, to arrive at the first camp after 3-4 hours of trekking.  Overnight at Big Tree Camp (Mti Mkubwa Camp).

Day 2 : 26^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Big Tree Camp (2,800m/9,100ft) to Shira 1 Camp (3,500m/11,500ft)

Elevation Gain:  700 metres / 2,400 feet

Today your trek will begin in the forest; however you will soon leave this ecosystem behind taking a steep track into a zone of giant heather and volcanic rock.  This is a full day ascending through the lush rolling hills below the Shira Plateau.  Shira is the third of Kilimanjaro’s volcanic cones. It is filled with the lava flow from Kibo and its rim has eroded and been blasted away by weather and volcanic action.  Finally the trail begins to ease as you reach the edge of the plateau.  You will camp at Shira One after 5-6 hours of trekking. The view of Kibo from across the plateau is incredible.

Day 3 : 27^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Shira 1 Camp (3,500m/11,500ft) to Shira 2 Camp (3,800m/12,500ft)

Elevation Gain:  300 metres / 1,000 feet

Your third day on the mountain consists of a trek across the Shira Plateau with an optional climb to Shira Cathedral (3,880m).  Shira is one of the highest plateaus on earth.  The day finishes with a gradual climb to Shira 2 Camp.  Trekking time without the optional excursion is approximately 3 hours.  Including the optional acclimatisation to the peak of Shira Cathedral will add approximately 1 hour.

Day 4 : 28^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Shira 2 Camp (3,800m/12,500ft) to Moir Hut (4,200m/13,800ft) via Lava Tower (4,550m/14,900ft) (optional)

Elevation Gain:  750 metres / 2,400 feet (maximum)

Elevation Loss:  350 metres / 1,150 feet (maximum)

Your climb today will take you steadily up and over the expansive ridgelines of high desert en route to Moir Hut.  If time and fitness allow it would be beneficial to ascend via the Lava Tower as this is a great opportunity to acclimatise. The trek to the base of Lava Tower is about 4 hours.  This tower is a 300 foot high volcanic plug.  If time and energy allow, you can scramble to the top of Lava Tower for fabulous panoramic views.  From Lava Tower head North West beginning your circuit of Kibo, the almighty summit cone of Mount Kilimanjaro.  Moir Hut Camp is an isolated and seldom used camp affording views over the Shira Plateau.  Trekking time approximately 5-7 hours.  An alternative to this route would be to take a gentle ascent across the alpine desert to Moir Hut in the morning and then spend the afternoon on a guided trek of the nearby Lent Group, a series of wind eroded parasite cones and ridges from whose upper slopes you can gaze down to the

plains of Kenya in the north.

Day 5 : 29^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Moir Hut Camp (4,200m/13,800ft) to Buffalo/Pofu Camp (4,020m/13,200ft)

Elevation Loss:  180 metres / 590 feet

Begin the morning trek heading out of the moorland and into the stark alpine desert, on a steep ridge off the main trail, beginning your venture on the Northern Circuit Route.  If you chose not to explore the Lent Group yesterday, take a short detour to the top of Little Lent Hill (3,375m/14,350ft) in the morning before regaining the trail to Buffalo Camp.  The total trekking time today is approximately 5 – 7 hours. 

Day 6 : 30^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Buffalo/Pofu Camp (4,020m/13,200ft) to Third Cave Camp (3,870m/12,700ft)

Elevation Loss:  150 metres / 500 feet

Proceed onward through valleys and over ridges through the alpine desert and moorland, continuing your circuit to the east.  This rarely travelled route allows you to enjoy the vast mountain wilderness in peace. Trekking time today is 5 - 7 hours.

Day 7 : 31^st Jan : Northern Circuit route

Third Cave Camp (3,870m/12,700ft) to School Huts (4,750m/15,600ft) Elevation Gain:  880 metres / 2,890 feet

Climb steadily to reach the Saddle, a lunar landscape between the peaks of Kibo and Mawenzi. From here, continue upwards to reach School Hut Campsite in the early afternoon. The remainder of the afternoon is spent resting and preparing for summit day, which will begin in the early hours of tomorrow morning.  Trekking time approximately 4-5 hours today.

Day 8 : 01^st Jan : Northern Circuit route

School Huts (4,750m/15,600ft) to Uhuru Peak (5,895m/19,340ft) to Mweka Camp (3,110m/10,200ft)

Around midnight, begin the final ascent to Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa. For the next six to eight hours, hike by the light of your flashlight. It can be very cold at night at these elevations, but it will be quite warm by the end of the hiking day and therefore you will want clothing for both extremes. The ascent to the crater rim is the most challenging part of the entire trek. The trail is very steep until you reach the crater rim at Gilman's Point.  The hike from Gilman's to Uhuru Peak is a gradual climb and, as far as hikes go, not very difficult. The altitude however makes the hike long and tiring.  After summit celebrations you will descend to Kibo Huts.  From the summit the descent will take you straight down to Mweka Hut, with lunch served on the way.  This part of the descent takes about 6 hours.  Later in the evening enjoy your last dinner on the mountain and a well-earned sleep. Beer and soda may be available for purchase at Mweka Hut, the only place it is available on this route.

Day 9 : 02^nd Jan : Northern Circuit route

Mweka Camp (3,110m/10,200ft) to Mweka Gate (1,830m/6,000ft)

Elevation Loss:  1,280 metres / 4,220 feet

Descend straight to the gate through lush forest (2-3 hours), looking for monkeys along the way.  Return to Moshi from Mweka Village.

Once back in Moshi I can poke around and relax till the night of the 4^th.  I depart late on the 4^th and arrive back at my least favorite airport just before 1 PM on the 5^th.

All Packed and ready to go!

OK, time to finish packing!

Trip to East Africa

Well, I have been out of work for three weeks now.  It’s strange.  Mostly it’s strange because I don’t feel the least anxiety about it.  But hey, grand adventure awaits.  As I write this one of my good friends is in Jordan, after visiting Morocco and Egypt.  Another close friend is in Australia.  I am feeling a bit behind the power curve.  But that all changes, soon enough.  I bought airfare to Entebbe today.  I am heading to Uganda to climb Margherita Peak on Mount Stanley.  I originally planned to visit Africa because I’d be out of work in the winter and in bad need of a vacation.  It seemed to me a logical choice as I haven’t been to Africa yet.  I wasn’t sure what I wanted to see there…. But I have always thought I’d end up climbing Kilimanjaro.  So I looked into climbs on Kili.  I decided I wanted to do the Northern Route as it is about the least traveled path to the summit.  No one seemed to be running it in Dec or Jan.  Then I stumbled on one outfitter that already has 2 folks doing that trip.  So I asked to join them.  That got me to looking at other mountains.  Mt Kenya looks like fun.  Meru looks fun…. But then I learned about the Rwenzori mountains in Uganda.  They look amazing.  And one of the peaks is quite technical, over 5,100 meters elevation and I can claim to have climbed in both Uganda and the DRC as it straddles the border.  What is not to love?! 

Now I have a week or so to sort out the rest of the trip, pack, prep and jump into the abyss.  In between these climbs I’ll have a dozen days that I still need to plan.  I am thinking I should see Zanzibar and probably Kenya.  Life is best lived as an adventure!  I shall post as I am able.  Merry Christmas!!             

90 Days and a Wake Up

I received my official notice today of my pending departure from Toyota.  It’s been coming since back in 2014.  Back then I was so ready to leave.  I was in Pakistan with an incredibly fun and fulfilling job when I got the news.  Now I am inside the 90 day window and will be jobless for the first time in 19 years and only the second time in my adult life.  Initially I was planning to look into NGO’s with positions in far away challenging places.  That may yet come to pass.  But first I am looking at returning to school for a certificate in leadership coaching.  I think I have much more to offer the world in that arena.  And, should I choose to go back to work for a large bureaucratic organization, it will help me there as well.

   

I bring this up because I had a wonderful evening doing tai chi on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific in my hometown.  I have always known when it was time to move on from one place to another.  Los Angeles became a bore in the mid-80’s.  Sasebo, Japan, the most beautiful place I have lived, began to look average after 5 years.  Malibu lost its luster before I departed for Pakistan.  But so far, my home town is still magical.  Before I began my forms today I watched a falcon hover in the air looking for prey.  It resembled a wasp or dragon fly below me.  Hovering in one spot.  Wings jerking about to maintain its posture.  Suddenly diving down toward the base of the cliff only to soar back up and repeat the search.  As I practiced tai chi chuan I watched the sun slowly set behind bands of cloud, orange, pink, blue: stunning.  I realized I am not yet done with this town.  It still holds something for me. 

I am not certain what the near future holds.  I have only a fuzzy plan for the next year.  I just know life will continue to be amazing as I strike out on a new path.  A new direction that has been calling since I was leaving for South Asia.  Life is such an amazing and wonderful adventure!  I feel like the luckiest person alive!      

Mountain Biking White Mountain Peak CA

It’s been more than 6 months since I went for a mountain bike ride.  So I decided to break the hiatus with a proper ride.  Of the peaks higher than 14,000 (4,200 m) in California only one has a 4x4 track to the summit.  I have never thought to hike up White Mountain Peak.  Who wants to hike up a sketchy dirt road?  Yeah it’s a fourteener, but hiking a 4x4 road just doesn’t seem very much fun.  Now, mountain biking that same road does seem like a really good idea.  So on Friday I drove up to the Bristlecone Pine forest.  I love that place.  The vegetation is minimal, the colors subtle, it’s a very special place full of trees that predate the time of Abraham - by more than 1,000 years.  Think about that for a moment.    The trailhead is above timberline, at 11,600 ft.  I spent the night sleeping on the ground without a tent.  The moon set early, about 23:30.  Being at elevation and waking frequently I was treated to a sky alight with stars.  It’s easy to forget just how bright a cloudless night can be when you live in the city. 

Saturday morning I woke and heated up some lentil soup and made a mug of espresso.  There were a dozen or so hikers that began before I got on the trail.  The ride uphill was as much walking my bike as it was riding.  Pushing a bike is much slower than hiking.  But I didn’t mind.  I was looking forward to the descent.  The White Mountains are a beautiful place so it is a beautiful hike, despite the 4x4 track.  I finally locked up my bike when I had to leave the dirt road close to the summit.  There are still a few large snow drifts blocking the path.  When I reached the weather station at the top there was only one other person there and he departed before I did.  It is always a bit magical to be alone on the summit of a mountain.  That is probably one of my happiest places to be, alone on a mountain top. 

Making my way back to my bike I was looking at a 7 mile ride dropping 4,400 ft.  The path is rocky, some of it loose, some patches of sand, some serious exposure in spots.  As I mentioned it has been a while since I was on a bike.  What is more I have not ridden hard since I broke my clavicle two years ago on a ride.  So this was a chance to relearn a rusty skill set.  Riding down steep rocky terrain can be a bit unnerving.  If you only ride on roads of rolling terrain then you probably don’t think too much about how you use the brakes on a bike.  But when you are riding down a steep, fast section, of rocky, loose 4x4 trail how you use your brakes is suddenly at the forefront of your thoughts.  The front brake scrubs speed much faster but apply it in on a soft section and you can end up in the air in front of the bike.  Too much rear brake and the back end begins sliding about.  Flying through a rock garden or over drops and it’s best to let go of braking and concentrate on picking the best line.  This takes faith because it is not what your mind wants.  You look ahead and see a challenging section and your mind is telling you: slow down!  But when you come up on it quick all you can do is let go of the brakes and aim until you get past the bumps.  It’s fun but also nerve racking. 

Needless to say the return to the truck much faster than the ascent.  What a wonderful way to begin a Saturday.  On my way out of the Whites I stopped at the Patriarch Grove.  This is the home to the oldest known living Bristlecone Pine.  You can’t drive all the way to the normal parking lot due to snow drifts so I struck out on foot to snap a few pictures.  The slope was steep and rocky as I moved about snapping pics.  At one point I sat down to change lenses.  As I was removing the telephoto from my Nikon my wide angle zoom rolled out of my camera bag and I watched it roll slowly down the rocks until it stopped about 10 feet below me.  There was nothing I could to but watch.  Retrieving it, I found it wouldn’t auto focus any longer, but while it does manually focus it won’t talk to the camera.  Oh, then there is the little rattling sound that now comes from it.  Oops.  So it goes.

The Decay of Industry

I work in a dingy office building in SoCal.  It hasn’t been properly maintained in years, a victim on big-company-disease.  Every day we bleed people.  Most peel away to the new company HQ in TX.  Others jump ship to rivals and better local prospects.  After life in SoCal the mind numbing flatness of TX is more than some can handle, including me.  So I sit here picking up odd projects as the decay intensifies.  It’s a surreal existence.  I recall moving into this building back when we were the underdog of the industry.  Back then there was excitement and promise here.  Not so much now.  For me this week is particularly challenging.  I just spent three weeks in the Nepalese Himalayas.  Being back in the June gloom of SoCal, nursing a cough acquired above 17,000 ft., I feel a bit out of sorts.  My first day back I was unaccountably happy.  My heart was still firmly in Nepal along with most of my brain.  Then I came back to the decay.  My first day back I was locked out of the computer system.  So I spent an entire day cleaning my desk, organizing paper files, basically menial tasks while my workload continued to build up.

Now I find myself at the end of the week.  A friend is visiting from Hawaii and we are going hiking in the Sierras tomorrow.  I’ve been guzzling an herbal expectorant hoping to allay the Khumbu cough.  It will be wonderful getting back into the wild.  It calls to my heart.  I was thinking how much it would be nice to relax a bit, and try to shake the cough, but I feel like I belong back in the snow.  So it will be a weekend with crampons and ice ax. 

I find it curious, should I sit around my apartment relaxing, I feel like I have wasted my time.  But if I spend the same amount of time trudging about a desolate landscape I feel so at peace and accomplished.  I don’t wonder about it too deeply though.  I just enjoy it.  Life is wonderful.                  

Post Trekking Emotions

Yesterday was a long travel day.  I spent something like 17 hours at cruising altitude and perhaps 7 more in various airports.  That is the one part of travel I do not enjoy.  So today is laundry and house cleaning day.  I was not planning to post but can’t stop myself.  The last actual trekking day, on the return to Lukla, I felt subdued.  That was unusual for me.  I usually don’t anticipate endings when traveling.  It was the one day I joked and smiled a bit less during the trip.  Most of my companions were ready for clean clothes, s

howers, less uneven footing.  I was thinking that given the opportunity I’d be heading back in the opposite direction. 

Now I am back in LaLa Land, the land of the lost.  I took today off work so that I can get over jet lag, wash clothes (my socks are all ready to walk away on their own!). and get sorted for a “normal” week.  I thought I’d feel relaxed and not too motivated today.  Wrong-o.  For some reason I am unaccountably blissful and energized today.  I have pulled out the trinkets I got for friends and family.  I hung the first thing I ever have on my apartment wall – a thangka I bought 2 days ago.

Life is amazing and wonderful! I am so blessed!        

Thamel, Kathmandu

Out shopping for trinkets/gifts.  I realized I needed to eat.  It's noon and I haven' had a bite yet.  So here I am at Phat Kath, one of many small cafes in Thamal.  I ordered an affogato (ice cream with espresso poured over it, a banana lassie and a gallette (some sort of savory buckwheat pancake).  There is music playing, the ever present sound of construction and I sit in the shade of some sore of citrus tree. 

It would bo so easy to fall into a life of travel to such places.  Life outside the USA can be so much more affordable.  And there is so much of the planet to yet see.  Let's see what this year brings....

The Great Unraveling

Here I sit in the New Panda Hotel.  Most of the people I spent the past 3 weeks with are at the airport.  I was in the Hotel Shanker last night and will depart from there to the airport in the morning.  But for my last night I have opted to drop $15 for a room rather then $100.  I still have some last minute shopping to do but nothing more pressing, perhaps a massage. 

Last night was the final party or the Marathon participants.  A good number of them (the tent campers) were stuck in Lukla due to weather and missed it. It largely consisted of  big cocktail party in the garden and dinner in the hotel ballroom simultaneously.  People drank, some too much.  Some odd angers emerged and there were some emotional fireworks here and there, but nothing beyond salvage.

It feels so odd seeing the few people I did this morning wandering about in a fog.  Most have left.  Of those remaining almost all will be gone by today.  The tight knit family is now dissolved.  People are on their way back to their normal reality and the trek is a memory.  I was a bit subdued he final day of trekking as I really didn't want it to end.  But all things do. 

   
  

Attrition

Last day at EBC (Everest Base Camp)  Of course by the time I can publish this I'll Be drinking beer at Namche Bazar abd the race will be over.  Today though has been eventful.  It was a rest day for acclimatization.  The only scheduled event was a moc-start for photos and such.  I didn't sleep well last night so by 5:30 I was too restless to remain in my sleeping bag so I got up and watched the Scottsman begin his ultramarathon from EBC to Kathmandu.  He's doing most of it unsupported and for charity.  That was at 06:00.  On the way back to the tent I took loads to photos of the Kumbu and base camp.  Not long after that the helicopters begin runs high up on Everest to recover bodies.  I don't know how many they recovered but their flying was impressive.  You can hear the rotors struggling to grab enough air to remain aloft.  Up they would go following the ice Fall before disappearing.  I thought that was it for the excitement until I learned two of our team were to be air-lifted to lower elevations.  Both had significant altitude issues: one pulmonary edema and one cerebral edema.  They should both be fine but had they remained another night at this altitude things could have been disastrous.   

Tomorrow is the event and I am much more confident that I was going into this.  Serious hikers share many skills with trail runners. A significant number of participants here are road runners.  I am pairing up with a Dutch Woman who is a good trail runner but whose GPS died.  She is also planning to do this as a fast trek, and since I have a better than average sense of direction (Mt Baldy in '03 aside) it should be  good paring.

Tenzing Hillary Everest marathon.... Race day

Our last night at EBC was cold and punctuated by avalanches. It's a curious thing, too dark to see where they are, and knowing a number of hanging sceracs still threaten EBC.  Around 2 AM I walked the short distance to the squatty potty tent.  Finding​ my way back to our sleeping tent was an interesting experience. It is absolutely dark, the ground is uneven and frozen, I was doing my best not to shine my headlamp into other participants.    Race day morning the weather was beautiful. We had breakfast at 5 AM for a 7AM start.

Only ate about half my porrage and as it goes ate very little during the run.  The beginning was a bit of a clusterufck.  Joan and I waited toward the back on the pack since we were planning to trek the course.  That was a bit of a mistake.   The section out of EBC is the sketchiest of the entire run.  There re many icy spots to negotiate and apparently many road runners are kind of feaked out by that.  I figure we lost 15 to 20 minutes easy just escaping EBC.  Once o our way it was just a steady fast walk.  We only stopped at the checkpoints and grabbed water at the same time.  It's strange taking several days gaining altitude and distance only to cover the same ground in hours.  Partnering with Joan was fantastic.  I pushed her early on by setting a pretty fast pace.  Then, late in the day at the two final uphill stretches she challenged me.  There is no way I'd have been as fast alone.

So, yes this was a marathon.  But I always was open that I was fast trekking ad not running it.  I was hoping to finish in under 12 hours.  As it so happens we completed the course in under 10 hours!  During the run, a Finn couple in our group, Joan and I had passed and been passed by several times told us "You hike really
fast.  We've been staring at your backside from 300 meters for a very long time!" 

So the race was a success.  I still feel like I completely screwed up my packing and prep but we went fast and were complemented by many of the runners.  I suppose I under valued the skill sets hikers have that can give them an edge over road runners. 

I am so happy I did this!  I may well do it again in the future.  What a fantastic way to live!!     

Himalayan Lodges

Our accomodations on the trip are more austere the higher we go.  All of the lodges do share some key points though:
* The only heated room in lodges is the dining room. 
* Showers are available for a fee, but not all lodges have them.  If they do, the room is not going to be heated and there is probably only one for everyone in the lodge. 
* If your cell phone or camera battery need charging, you can do that for a fee. 
* The are stark.  Two single beds with a hard platform and foam mattress. 
* Bathrooms may be western style or a squatty-potty but either way are not going to be that clean, will be shared by all on that floor of the lodge and TP gets placed in a small trash can, not flushed.  Oh, and this is important, you have to provide your own TP.
* The lodge, aside from the dinning room will probably have doors open to the outside, even if it is snowing.  * * The higher you go the higher the prices will be. 
* Water is not filtered but is boiled for cooking and water bottles.

I figure is a shower is available the the room has a mirror it qualifies at Himalayan 5 star. 

High Altitude Therepy

I didn't sleep much at all last night.  I can't complain as the previous two nights I slept pretty well.  It's all part of acclimating.  So this morning I was petty tired but still opted to climb Kala Patar for a possible view of Everest.  It was foggy when we bagan after breakfast.  The scenery on the hike was surreal in the fog.  Despite being tired, and the steep uphill slog, I found myself feeling so happy to be here, to be expending energy this way.  I think Kala Patar is about 18,800 ft at the summit.  It is heavily festooned with prayer flags and despite the limited visibility I felt like a child at play.  I scrambled to the actual summit, a series of slopping​ stones with an impossible drop off on one side.  It you follow tht ridgeline it takes you to Pulmori.  We had glimpses of Nupse and a peak in Tibet as well as a fantastic view of Everest Base Camp and the Kumbu Icefall far below us. 

Tomorrow we head from Gorak Shep to Base Camp after lunch.  If the morning looks clear enough I may try another run up Kala Patar for more pics.  At base camp we have one last rest day before the race.  I am feeling much more confident about my first marathon as this trip wears on.  I am not sure how long this will take me but I plan to do i more as a very fast trek than as a trail run.  I have discovered I have some advantages over many of the runners.  Running over rocky shorelines as a kid I am most comfortable on the worst sections of this course.  The altitude isn't as much of an issue for me either.  All the local peaks I've climbed last year are paying off.  If I can maintain my usual fast pace, limit rest breaks and take advantage of my long stride I think I'll turn a respectable showing.  Either way though, running a first marathon beginning at 17,600 ft comes with some bragging rights.  Life is wonderful!

Gorak Shep and a Kid at Christmas

OK, odd title I suppose but what can I say?  I do feel like a child at christmas.  When I have the opportunity to add photos to these posts many, if not most, will think I must be suffering from some sort of high altitude psychosis.  Yes, this is a desolate place.  Not much grows at the top of the world.  It is a stark landscape but terrifying and gorgeous.  The mountains are unbelievably massive, sheer rock, blanketed with falling glaciers, and hanging seracs waiting to come crashing down.  The Kumbu glacier next to Goak Shep is covered with debris from the moraine.  It is hiding.  But just as you think it's just a pile of debris left from the retreating Kumbu you spot the ice cliffs scattered along it and hear the snap and crack of it's constant movement.  

Gorak Shep is an odd little outpost of a few seasonal lodges that sits between a small sandy plain at the foot of Kala Pathar on one side and a sheer cliff of loose moraine abutting the Kumbu on the other side.  It is the last stable ground before Base Camp which itself sits atop the Kumbu. 

I have no rational explanation for my euphoria.  All I know is that as I look around me at the terrible beauty of it all I feel such tremendous joy.  I was asked by someone a week before I left for Nepal what I felt about this trip.  Without thinking much I answered with complete honesty.  "I feel like I am going home."  Perhaps that is why I am so happy.     

Hello From Lobuche!

Welcome from Lobuche! We are spending the night on the other side of the moraine from the bottom reaches of the Khumbu glacier.   We hiked here from Dingbuche.  Now that we are here many in the group are really feeling the elevation.  For whatever reason I feel amazing though.  One of the group commented tonight that it was nice watching how happy I am at just being here.  The closer we gt to he run the less anxious I am about fast trekking 26.2 miles from 17,600 ft.  After we arrived at our lodge my roommate and I hiked up to the top of the moraine and debated walking down to the glacier.  It looks very strange here because after melting so much the top is nearly uniformly covered in rocks and dirt.  But look closely and ice cliffs are visible.  As we looked at possible routes down we were​ distracted by the amazing views and kept going further up stream along the top of the moraine.  Eventually we stopped and while taking it all in began to hear the crack and crash of movent coming from the glacier below...  such a good thing we didn't go down there!  It seems atop the moraine we were at 15,600 ft! 

On the way here, above Thukla are the climbers memorials.  These are stacks of stone or boulders with plaques affixed.  These are the shrines to the many dead taken by Everest over the years.  I knew we would be seeing these and we were told it would be an emotional part of our day.  I don't generally feel too emotional when climbers or clients die.  Frankly, it is and has always been part of the business of climbing dangerous peaks.  So I approached these with the thought of reading the plaques and taking some photos... not tacky selfies as many trekkers were given to.  As I passed one particular memorial I was overcome with emotion and began sobbing.  It was no one I have heard of but I couldn't detach from it.  I took a photo of the plaque and will look up the climber when I return home.  after that a number of the stone monuments had that effect on me.  I was walking around reading the details of these past climbers and openly weeping.  There was another plaque that mentioned a climber who perished on the descent and named the sherpa who held the man as he died.  That place had a much larger impact on me then I could have imagined.    

   

Sleeping at Altitude

For he past two nights I have not slept well.  Two nights ago my sinuses were stuffed and I didn't want to breath exclusively by my mouth.  I was afraid I'd wake with a sore throat so sleep was fitful.  Last night I was beginning to reconsider my choice to drop taking Diamox.  I found I developed a low level headache and some anxiety.  The headache seems to have been cured with Motrin.  The anxiety was a new thing for me.  I found myself feeling somewhat trapped in my mummy bag.  Or perhaps not trapped as much as constricted.  Part of that is likey my own doing.  I had two Nalgege bottles full f hot water in my ba to ore-warm it.  The result though was I felt a bit strangled.  So it was another fitful night of sleep. 

I am not going to resume Diamox yet.  So far poor sleep and my minor headache have been my only symptoms of AMS.  Let's see what tody brings as  head to Lobucheand higher elevations.

The Daimox Delima

Diamox is supposed to lessen the effects of altitude.  I started taking it a few days ago because I figured it couldn' hurt to have every available edge.  As of this morning I have changed my mind.  One of the other members of our party mentiooned that Diamox can casue loose stools.  I thought, gee perhaps it wasn't the wather I used to brush my teeth after all that caused that.  Then I decided to check all the side effects.  We were told by our guides it increases urination.  Looking it up I found out why.  Not sure how I missed it but Diamox is a diaretic.  That explains having to get up multiple times to pee last night.  The deciding factor though is that it causes tinnitus.  Crap, I already have that thanke to the USAF F16's at Bagram.  OK no more of that stuff.  We ae acclimating very slowly, only hiking a few miles a day, a few rest dys thrown in.  I shall be fine and to hell with Diamox! 

Altitude

Last night we were at 3820 mt.  I think we go above 4000 tonight and remain above that until we run back downhill.  The air is thinner here but I have been at or near this altitude quite a bit in the past year.  Practicing Tai Chi Chuan up here is interesting as my breathing rhythm has to shift to compensate for the O2 level.   I did begin taking Diamox a few days ago and need to drink more fluids as a result... which I haven't been.  The Diamox causes tingling in the fingers and toes.  It' actually more like needles and pins.  So each morning I debate if I should continue it.  For those of you who are not sure what Dimox even is, it's supposed to help prevent or at least lessen AMS (Acute mountain sickness... aka altitude sickness.  I have had to deal with this little malady once or twice above 4000 mt so thought I'd give this newfangled drug a shot.

At Dingboche tonight and tomorrow night.  Tomorrow we have a shot 2 hr hike to check a loop in the course and grab a view of Island Peak.  We just got word that the Hillary Step has collapsed.  That could potentially kill ascents from the South Col.  It would have a major impact for the region.  I don't think the trekking will change much but the coin that expeditions spend to move gear will definitely impact both the regula porters as well as the hight altitude porters.

It's cold out tonight.  We are now above timberline until the run.  That means more wind and colder temps.  I may actually have to break out my thermal undies soon, at least at night.

One last quick update on posts.  I don't know when I'll have a good connection for my tablet so I will probably post a group of updates at a time.  Sorry about that.  OK time for bed.    

The Trek Above Namche Bazzar

Today we began hiking the marathon route.  It wasn't all that far in distance, 6 or 7 miles perhaps.  There was a pretty good uphill section and we are now solidly above 11,000 ft.  So the air is much thinner than most are used to.  I seem to be getting called a mountain goat quite a lot.  I had to ask if it was because I hike very well or perhaps because I am not bathing regularly.  Hopefully the first.... or perhaps both!

We visited a monestery at Tengboche.  I was wondering if it was the same one Batman trined at and then I remembered that one burned down.  So probably not.  The monestery will serve as a refuge of sorts for anyone who is still running at a certain point, I don't know what time, 8 hrs?  Anyway those who have not passed the monestery by the chosen time will suspend their run there for the night.  This is to keep them from running in the dark and possibly becoming lost or injured.  The following morning they will continue on. 

So you may be wondering what kind of silly people sign up to run 26.2 mies starting at the mother of the world.  There are something like 200 runners.  a good portion are Nepali.  As for those in the small group I am trekking with they are American, French, Swedish, Pole, Thai, Canadian, Finn and Estonion and it's possible I missed a few.  And this is a group of about 18.  Of the Americans  of us are either current or prior military.  One of the French is a very talented marathon  runner.  One of the Poles in another group is in the global top 20 marathon runners.  One couple is on their honeymoon.  Two in the Marine Corps were looking for the craziest race they could find.  The Thai is the first from his country to run in this race and is live streaming updates to Thai TV.  Basically all kinds of people run this race. 

PLEASE NOTE:
Should any of my friends feel envious of me doing this, please let me know.  I am thinking of doing it again next year or perhaps the year after.  So if you think this sounds like the kind of crazy you might like to try i'd love some familiar company!

TREKKING NOTE: 
The higher you get the more expensive goods and services become.  Internet in Namche Bazzar was $5 and a roll of toilet paper was $2.50.  Here at Deboche the net costs $6 and a roll of TP is $5. 

Cafe Daphne: the Coolest Bar in Nepal

MiA post amazingly similar to this may magically appear soon.  It can be a challenge blogging from the Himalayas.  I don' know if it's the connectivity, my Lenovo tablet or Green Tara blocking the signal.  So it goes.

So the title of this post is about a bar in Nepal.  I have been in many, many Asian bars in my life.  The Cafe Dauphine is a new favorite of mine.  The owner is a very close friend of our guide, Ricky.  It seems to be the favorite hangout of Everest Marathon runners.  I met an amazing Scotsman there the other night who is running for charity the day before we run the marathon.  He will be running an ultra-marathon from Everest Base Camp to Kathmandu!  about 3/4 of that will be an unsupported run.  I am truly impressed.  It was interesting talking to him about the race and runners.  There are two Poles and a Frenchman who are hoping to chack into the top 3.  Up to/ this point Nepalis have owned the top 3 spots.  So it is going to be an interesting start.  Beginning on the Khumbu glacier the start is a jumble os ice and rock. 

Trekking tips:
So far I feel like I was not ell enough informed about the trekking.  My own fault.  I just missed out on the beta.  So for anyone thinking about this in the future here are a few notes: Don't worry about any snacks unless you are running the marathon.  Then only have them for the run.  There are ample tea houses to gab snacks and meals.  Almost nothing is free.  Internet in the lodge here in Namche Bazzar is $5 for your stay.  Showers are $3 to $4.  Charging batteries is about $2.50 ea.  Rooms have no outlets to charge your electronics.  A solar cell is a reasonable investment.  Just make sure it can handle the items you want to charge.  Toilet paper is not provided.  Carry enough at all times.  You can buy it here for $2.50/roll.           

Today was a rest day.  We are taking our time getting to base camp to ensure people are acclimated.  So today being a rest day we hiked several kilometers and had a practice run back to the race finnish line.  During today's hike we saw Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam. 

I walked back to the finish line rather quickly, rather than running it.  Afterward we were free so I hiked up to the ridge above town and explored bit.  Tomorrow we continue the trek. 

     

Terminal Travel

Gee, I guess I get to write this post again.  I was about finished when my tablet dumped it.  I shouldn't be surprised.  It is a qurter to three.  We are still in the terminal at Kathmandu waiting to hear if our flight is canceled for the day.  It seems the airstrip at Lukla is small, at the edge os a cliff and has no radar.  Flights in and out are by visual control only.  So here we sit.  Since 6AM.  We are now very well acquainted with this small terminal:  one book stand, one snack shop, one small canteen.  Part of our group appears to have made the first flight.  This is one of the challenges of travel in the high mountains.  In the likely event we end up cancelled we will head back to hotels and try again tomorrow.  If the visibility is still too sketchy tomorrow we may be offered the option of going to helocopter.  That would be a $500 upcharge.  I am not a huge fan of that prospect. 

So this day has proven a challenge to many in the group.  Some are anxious and a bit unhappy.  Some​ take it in stride.  One friend considering her options... rather than a copter and compressed trekking schedule she is thinking of filing a travel insurance claim for the trip and heading to Myanmar.  That may not be a bad option. 

So what have we learned so far today?  The weight allowances are not strictly enforced.  My bags weighed 15.2 kg, my friend MJ's were 16 but another friend's were under 11.   

UPDATE:  Sitting in the room of a hotel in Thamal.  Yup, the flight was cancelled.  We have a meeting tonight at 18:30 to find out about tomorrow and Plan B should the weather in Lukla continue to be uncooperative.  Wish us luck!

Last Minute Preps and Struggles

Today was a day of tours, packing, sorting, repacking, weighing, sorting, repacking, weighing... OK let's  just say I reweighed m stuff about five times today!

This morning we visited the local crematorium.  It's right off the river, there are many temples and lingam.  I took many photos.  And at this point I owe the readers a temporary apology. It looks like I won't be able to use my table to post pics here on the blog.  I haven't figured out how to efficiently resize copies to post here.  So I am sorry about it but I will correct that upon my return to the land of the lost. 

Oh, I began talking about tours.  So we also went to South Asia's largest Buddhist Stupa and a Thankla shop.  I need to head back there when I return from Everest.

OK, now if anyone should be reading this who in considering joining this race in  future years this may interest you.  I thought the 15 kg limit on our bags only applied to our duffle bag since Sherpa's will be carrying those.  apparently the real driver are the restrictions on the aircraft taking us to Lukla to begin the trek.  So it is not a day pack plus 15 kg.  The limit applies to all out baggage.  This is why I have to lug my bags back and forth between my room and the lobby so many times.  The lobby just so happens o have a nic digital scale.  So I removed most of my emergency supplies and sone of my clothes.  The big hit was to my snacks. I brought a bunch of cliff bars and dehydrated bananas for the talking.  After I finally whittled away enough weight to get below 15 kg I took my snacks to the scale and began weighing out snacks.  1st I set aside my race day snacks.  Next my 2 chocolate bars.  Then the bananas .  I finished by adding on enough Cliff bars to max out my allowance... I now have a scant 1 kg of snacks to cover 13 days of hiking.

 

Getting to Nepal

Well this certainly isn't a close destination from LA.  I am somewhere over Southern China, I think.  This is the second leg of my trip.  First I flew from LAX to Gangzhou.  That was about a 15 hour flight.  Yes, it's a long time to spend in an aircraft.  I watched 3 films before finally taking a sleeping pill for the 2nd half of it.  I figured that would help with the jet lag.  When we landed the layover stretched from 2 to 5 hours.  The reasons given were a bit vague but I suspect it had to do with the monsoon.  No matter, it's just part of flying to such locations.  It really helps to have the right attitude for this type of travel.  You can't be too anxious about tight schedules or plans.  It works much better if you can just take things as they come.  Once again that so useful term I learned from the Army springs to mind: embrace the suck.   

Well I don't have pics to post yet.  This city reminds me so much of places in Pakistan.  I wandered around Thamel for a bit.  The trekking gear here is no bargain.  I went looking for a good rain hat only to discover they cost more here then I'd pay back in the USA. 

Oh well.  So what was my first meal here in Nepal you may ask?  I found an Irish bar and had a Guinness and some momo (gyoza).  OK, it`s just past 9 and I am getting a little loopy.  Time for sleep!  zzzzzzz

One World Trekking Itinerary

For those of you really curious about where we will be on any given day below is our itinerary.  I have shortened it a wee bit but it’s still a pretty long read.  Rest assured I will be taking many photos and taking notes. 

I have been asked what I was feeling about this trip and the first answer that sprang to mind is that I feel as if I am going home!  J

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu.  Check into hotel.   Brief orientation of the Kathmandu area.  Suck up the jet lag.

Day 2: Morning sightseeing tour around Kathmandu & afternoon race meeting at event hotel.  After breakfast, we’ll have a half-day guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu. Our tour will include visits to a few of the city’s major cultural, religious and historical sites, such as Boudhanath Stupa, the country’s largest Buddhist stupa, the Pashupatinath Temple of Shiva on the banks of Bagmati River which is the holiest Hindu temple in Nepal and the hilltop shrine of Swayambhunath more famously known as the ‘Monkey Temple’. Kathmandu is seeped in medieval history and architecture, where myths and legends blend seamlessly and modernism and traditional coexist in stark harmony.  After lunch, there will be a race meeting in the hotel lobby and briefing on the upcoming trek to the Mount Everest Base Camp and marathon. After the meeting the remainder of the day is free for resting and making final preparations for the journey into the Khumbu.

Day 3: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Phakding Village. Approximately 45 minute flight to Lukla at 9,184 feet followed by a 3 hour hike to Phakding at 8,699 feet.  The group will fly to Lukla on a regularly scheduled commercial plane for the spectacular and panoramic flight north to Lukla. Upon arrival, you will be met by your trekking guide and have some time to enjoy a cup of tea and wander around the village while your Sherpa crew prepares the various loads of group gear for the porters.  The walk to Phakding Village is gradual most of the way, with only a few uphill sections after the Tarhe Khola River, where we get superb views of Kusum Kangru (20,890 feet / 6,369 meters). After crossing a short suspension bridge, we encounter a short climb that brings us to Ghat Village.  Another 1.5 hours of gradual hiking brings us to Phakding Village where we will spend the night at a lodge. Distance: 4.5 miles, Ascent: 590 feet, Descent: 1,675 feet. 

Day 4: To Namche Bazaar. 11,283 feet. 5 to 6 hours of trekking.  Leaving the village of Phakding, and after crossing a suspension bridge spanning the Dudh Kosi River, the walk is pleasant with only a few short, steep uphill and downhill sections. Once we pass through the village of Benkar, there are  magnificent views of Thermasarkhu (21,675 feet / 6,608 meters) and we will now start to encounter other trekking groups on this busy section of trail leading up to the small village of Monjo at 9,200 feet.  A short while out of Monjo we come to the entrance of the Sagarmatha National Park, where our trekking permits will be checked. From here a short descent and a gradual walk brings us to another suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi River and the village of Jorsalle. This is the last village and the only place to shop until Namche Bazaar.  We now follow a river bed trail to a bridge over the Imja Tse River and then along the winding uphill path to Namche Bazaar. As you climb higher the peaks of Kwangde and Kusum Kangru are seen. Then the Mount Everest-Nuptse Wall, Lhotse and Taweche Peak come into view. A 1 to 2 hour uphill hike brings us to the famed capital of the Khumbu - Namche Bazaar, situated in an impressive U-shaped amphitheater bowl.  Distance: 7.5 miles, Ascent: 3,940 feet, Descent: 1,380 feet.

Day 5: Rest and acclimatization day at Namche Bazaar.  Short hike and sightseeing, we’ll use today for relaxing and gaining some well needed acclimatization. 

Day 6: Trek to Khumjung Village. 12,430 feet. 3 hours of trekking.  After a great time at Namche Bazaar, we continue on a trail taking us above Namche, past the airstrip of Syangboche and on to Khunde and Khumjung in the Green Valley.  Khumjung is the largest Sherpa village in the Khumbu area. The first one and half hours of walking is all uphill and quite strenuous. We’ll have magnificent views of Kwangde, Thermasarkhu and other peaks with an aerial view down to Namche Bazaar. Upon reaching the small airstrip of Syangboche, we make a short climb to the village of Khunde, wonderfully situated beneath the sacred peak of Mount Khumbila. Beyond Khunde, a gentle path leads us to the quiet and sleepy village of Khumjung and our overnight campsite. In the afternoon we can go back to Khunde and visit a hospital built with the help of the Sir Edmund Hillary's Foundation and visit Khumjung’s old monastery, the only place believed to have a Yeti scalp. Khumjung also has a high school built with the help of the Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation.

Day 7: Trek to Deboche. 12,535 feet.  5 hours of trekking.  This morning’s trail is a winding path with great views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam (the Mother’s Charm). In the village of Shanasa, we have a chance of seeing the colorful Danphe Pheasant, the national bird of Nepal. From Shanasa, the trial descends to the small settlement of Phungitenga (10,660ft), a small settlement with couple of teahouses along the Imja Tse River. The walk from here is gradually uphill along a winding trail for about two hours to Tengboche, one of the most beautiful villages in the Nepal. The first thing that comes to your eye is the big monastery or gompa, then the large field with campsites, teahouses and lodges situated beneath the shapely and beautiful peak of Ama Dablam.  Mount Everest looms in the distance above the Nuptse Wall, Lhotse and Lhotse Shar. A further descent of 30 minutes leads through a beautiful forest of rhododendron, birch and pine to the small hamlet of Deboche. 

Day 8: Trek to Dingboche. 14,432 feet. 5 to 6 hours of trekking.  After a wonderful overnight at Deboche, the trail crosses a small bridge over the narrow gorge of the Imja Tse River and begins its slow uphill journey past a large mani wall gate to upper Pangboche Village and its old monastery. We now have a short climb to our lunch spot at Shomare. After lunch, we continue gradually east towards the towering north face of Ama Dablam. We eventually enter the Imja Tse Valley situated beneath the mighty peaks of Ama Dablam, Nuptse and Lhotse and finally arrive in the village of Dingboche.  Dingboche is a beautiful patchwork of fields enclosed by stone walls that protect the crops of barley, buckwheat and potatoes from the cold winds and grazing animals.  Dingboche has about ten teahouses and lodges and also serves as the gateway to the Chhukung and Hinko valleys as well as the world’s fifth highest mountain – Makalu.

Day 9: Acclimatization day at Dingboche.  An optional day for a hike. The walk to Chhukung Village at (15,514 feet) is a worthwhile objective and takes about 3 to 4 hours.  Chhukung is home to about five teahouses overlooking the snow capped peaks and glaciers of Lhotse, Ama-Dablam and Imja Glacier. Chhukung is the last inhabited settlement in eastern Khumbu.

 Day 10: Trek to Lobuche. 16,164 feet. Via Dugla. 5 hours of trekking.  From Dingboche our trail leads us north with the path ascending gradually for about 40 to 50 minutes as you approach a stupa with mani prayer wheels. From here it’s a gentle trail across a rock-strewn meadow overlooking Pheriche Village, situated at an elevation of 14,009 feet. After a pleasant walk of 1.5 to 2 hours the trail reaches Dugla (also shown on maps as Thugla) after crossing a small wooden bridge over the raging Khumbu glacial river. From here a steep 1 hour walk will take us to a resting spot that showcases Everest and other prominent neighboring Himalayan peaks. A gradual ascent of 1.5 to 2 hours brings us to Lobuche. The village actually comes as some surprise, as Lobuche is a very tiny yak herder settlement, well hidden and sheltered from the wind. Distance: 5 miles, Ascent: 2,100 feet.

Day 11: Trek to Gorakshep at 16,990 feet.  Optional hike up Kala Pattar (18,200 feet) in the afternoon.  We spend the first hour of hiking gradually gaining elevation along a wide grassy field. At the end of the grassy field, we encounter a short steep climb of about 20 minutes and then continue along the side of the Khumbu Glacier on a straight-forward rocky moraine path. Topping out on the last uphill section, the fabulous mountain setting makes us realize why we came! We are now what seems to be a stones throw from Mount Everest, Nuptse and the domed summit of Pumori.  Gorakshep is a small cluster of lodges and teashops situated on a flat and rocky field below the famous viewpoint peak of Kala Pattar. Back in the early 1950s, Gorakshep served as the base camp for many Everest Expeditions.  After settling in and having lunch, the day’s adventure continues with a hike (optional) to Kala Pattar, the famous viewpoint peak on the southwest ridge of Mount Pumori.  After a short stroll out of camp, you begin a steep 45 minute climb to a level bench.  From this bench, it is about 1.5 to 2 hours to the top. The hard effort will be worth it.  Standing on top, with hundreds of prayer flags flying, the small rocky summit of Kala Pattar overlooks the towering face of Mount Pumori. Across the glacial valley, Everest looks within a stones throw away, situated majestically between the summit of Nuptse and Lhotse. Take lots of photos before we begin the descent back to Gorakshep and our lodge.

Day 12: Rest and acclimatization day at Gorakshep. Optional hike up Kala Pattar (18,200 feet).  A full day at 16,990 feet for rest and acclimatization.

Day 13: Continue to Mount Everest Base Camp and Khumbu Icefall at 17,515 feet. 3 to 4 hours of trekking.  Today is a BIG DAY, as we trek to the foot of the world’s highest mountain!  Our adventure continues to Everest Base Camp and the Khumbu Icefall. Once out of Gorakshep, the path can be misleading, so please follow your Sherpa guides. Every year the trail changes some due to the movements of the glacier. The hike from Gorakshep to Base Camp is short but is quite strenuous due to the high altitude.  During our visit, Everest Base Camp will be quite lively with commotion as this is the high expedition season. Upon reaching the foot of The Big E, a great view of the Khumbu icefall awaits you. After some time visiting this historic place, we will settle into our camp for the next two nights. For those of you not making it to Kala Pattar yesterday afternoon, you will have a chance to do so early this morning before heading the Everest Base Camp. 

Day 14: At Everest Base Camp.  This is our preparation and acclimatization day at Everest Base Camp for tomorrow’s trail running challenge. A short practice run will be held after breakfast with runners fully attired and in their official marathon t-shirt for our group photo. Later in the day we will be joined by a number of Nepali runners running in the marathon.

MAY 29: Day 15: RACE DAY! The Tenzing-Hillary Everest Marathon We’ll receive an early wakeup call for breakfast. Around first light, at 7am, the starting gun goes off and you begin by negotiating the first 5K section of the run across Khumbu Glacier to Gorakshep. This will prove to be the most difficult section of the race underfoot and trail conditions improve from here. By the time you reach the halfway point at Orsho, you’ll definitely begin to notice the thicker air (more oxygen) and this should come as a big mental and physical boost. The next big challenge will be the 1,650 foot climb from the bridge at Phungitenga (Mile 21) to Khunde Village.  The trail now continues downhill via the Hillary School and Syangboche Village to the finishing banner at Namche Bazaar.  Each runner’s personal baggage will be brought from Everest Base Camp to Namche Bazaar by our porters who will arrive later today.  Note: The marathon course includes a 6K loop from Dingboche to Bibre en route to Namche Bazaar.

Day 16: To Monjo. 9,299 feet. 3 to 4 hours of trekking.  After a late breakfast, we’ll have a leisurely, mostly downhill walk to Monjo. 

Day 17: Trek to Lukla. 9,184 feet. 5 hours of trekking.  The last day of this great trek has arrived.  On this good path to Lukla, you can walk at your own pace and enjoy the scenery and small villages. Apart from few short uphill sections, the only long climb will be just before reaching Lukla (of course!) and will take approximately 45 minutes from a place called Choplung. Tonight at our lodge we’ll enjoy a celebratory ‘Thank You’ dinner with our Nepali staff.

Day 18: Fly to Kathmandu. Hotel.  Our flights back to Kathmandu are usually scheduled for the morning. Upon arriving back at the Kathmandu domestic terminal, you will be met by our local agent and transferred back to the group hotel. 

Day 19: Free day in Kathmandu. Group celebration dinner.  Today you are free to spend as you wish.  One suggestion is to wander the maze of streets in Thamel to people watch, souvenir shopping or just drink a beer at a rooftop restaurant. In the evening we will have a group celebration dinner. This day may also be needed as cushion in case the flight from Lukla is delayed. We don’t want to miss our international connections.

Nepal and Everest Base Camp???

 I am now less than 1 week away from flying to Kathmandu, Nepal.  It’s been a lifelong ramp up to this excursion.  I didn’t really appreciate that until a few days ago.  I recall being quite young and thinking that one day I would see Mount Everest.  Then there was the family friend who used to entertain us at holiday events with amazing slide shows of his travels to the Valley of the Kings and other amazing places.  I always envied his travels.  I used to tell myself that I would one day do that.

I hadn’t thought of either of these things until a few days ago.  It was probably a year ago that my friend MJ told me she was going to run a marathon in Nepal and this I should join her.  Not just a marathon mind you but one that begins near the Khumbu ice fall.  I laughed and told her I gave up running back in college.  She was persistent though.  She insisted because I hike and climb mountains I would be fine.  I finally looked up info on this crazy race last fall.  There are a small number of runners completing it in under 5 hours.  Most of them are Nepali military.  A good number of participants take 10 to 13 hours to finish.  When I read that my first thought was: I can do Mt Whitney in 12 hours from the portal to the summit and back.  And that hike climbs more than 6,000 ft. and is 22 miles long.  This “run” would be less than 2,000 ft. of climbing and only 4 miles further.  Suddenly this looked quite reasonable.  Suddenly I no longer had an argument.  OK, count me in!

So this blog is intended to become an account of my trip.  Some people are worried about me but if you look back at the beginnings of this blog, Nepal seems to sedate compared to Bagram, Kabul, the Salang Pass, Rawalpindi. 

A few days ago did my last training hike: Mount San Gorgonio, 18.5 miles and 5,800 ft of elevation gain, a beautiful day and a wonderful hike.  Didn’t need the crampons or ice axes we brought, but better to have them and not need them then to need them and not have them.

I don’t know how much net connectivity I’ll have, but I will do my best to chronicle this adventure.  It’s going to be different using a small tablet to type things out.  I am also using a new camera and hope to get some amazing pics as well.  It’s hard to imagine not taking amazing pics in the Himalayas.  I could probably take a Kodak Instamatic and get amazing photos!  

https://www.oneworldtrekking.com/all-trips/341-tenzing-hillary-everest-marathon-nepal.html