Notes on Uganda

Well, after two nights in a suburb of Entebbe I hired a car to come up to Kampala.  When I say suburb, read villiage.  Susan my host was wonderful.  Beautiful room but a bit isolated from Entebbe.  It was wonderful waking up to a view of Lake Victoria.  That is another thing I knew, as a young child, I would one day see.  Susan arranged my ride with Jude.  He brought me here to the backpacker's hostle and then on an ATM run.  I didn't bring too much cash with me so I'll be using ATM's for expenses I van't place on plastic.  Jude informed me that Barclays nd Standard Charteed are the most reliable ATM's here. 

Tomorrow Jude will be collecting me at 07:00 to drive me to Kliembe, at the foot of the Rwenzori mountais.  I'll have a free day there before my trek.  I think I'll fid more to do in a smaller village than this city of nearly 2M folks.  I was hoping to go online and look for a flight from Entebbe to Zanzibar.  Unfortuntely the wifi is down here.  It seems toi be a common issue in Ugnda.  The servie itself is unreliable and on top of that the hosts don't always keep their accout recharged.  So I don't know if I'll be able to do so.  That could impact my decisions.  The big take away hee is when raveling to Uganda do your research before hand.  Of course I would still keep a felxible schedule though.  I was considering taking a bus to Kliembe but was concened aboutt the safety of my duffles.  I have gear for cold weather and snow that I can't easily replace here.  Jude is taking me there for far less that half the cost I was quoted by the tour operator.      

OK, wifi is back up so I am posting this now while I am able.

Cheers!!

New Year in Africa

The last two days were a chore... traveling for  29 hours.  I am not a big fan of spending so much time on my butt!  But last night, at 23:00, I finally arrived in Entebbe.  It had slipped my mind that folks would be celebrating New Year's Eve.  I felt unusually emotional as the taxi drove to my Air BnB with fire works popping all about.  It seemed so right to be here, in Africa, far from home, at the start of 2018.  Out of work.  Waiting to go back to school.  A new chapter in my curious life.  Up till my arrival I kept second guessing what I was doing; if I packed the right things; where I'd be over the next few weeks.  But on that short drive suddenly everything was as it should be. 

Not that finding the Air BnB was without incident.  My Ai BnB host, Susan, had arranged a taxi for me.  But that driver hadn't bothered to make up a sign with my name.  So I found my own taxi at the airport.  This was the same airport that brought Uganda to my attention as a child.  Back then it was a horrible hijacking and daring raid by Israel while Idi Amin was ruling the country that had Uganda dominating the news.  Things are much better now.  So anyway, apparently the Google map link on Air BnB is not so accurate in Uganda.  I ended up at the wrong location.  The taxi driver called Susan and found out we were still 3 km away.  Off we went down a red clay road with red clay speed-bumps on the outskirts of Entebbe.  At one point the drier flagged down a motorcyclist to help show us the way.  As we drove, suddenly the road was blocked by 6 or 8 burning tires.  In Uganda, if you can't afford fireworks then burning old tires is an acceptable substitute.  Unfortunately these tires were all over the road.  It was impossible to drive around them.  The guy on the bike showed us a back road through a different part  of the village that got us past the fires.  I eventually got to the Air BNB somewhere around 12:30, I think. 

There hasn't been any internet connectivity since I arrived.  I realized as I lay in bed this morning how uncomfortable that made me feel.  I suppose if I planned this trip better it would have been a non-issue but I was hoping to do  bit more research once I arrived.  This place is on the far outskirts of Entebbe so I can't just walk into town.  And being January 1st it's a holiday and many places are closed.  I haven't even been able to post that I arrive safely.  Hopefully my family is used to that by now.  It forced me to think about how dependent I have become on connectivity.  It's not a good thing.  I need to go back to using hard copy Travel Guides as a back up.  I also need to seriously consider shifting to  global phone plan for trips. 

Today I am taking it easy.  I reorganized my gear.  I think I planned it pretty well.  The only things that cause me pause are my boots and jackets.  I skipped mountaineering boots in favor of backpacking boots.  The plastic double-boots are much more correct for glacier travel and I'll be doing a bit of that.  But only a wee bit so bringing them didn't seem practical.  And to be air I have done most of my winter mountaineering in backpacking boots anyway.  The issue with jackets is that I only brought down.  I have a good shell so should be able to keep them dry at lower elevations.  But is is still a concern.

OK, time to relax and read the novel I brought.  Tomorrow I head to Kampala and life gets fast again.

 

Africa Itinerary.... or at least what I know right now

Sorting gear for the trip

Well, tis the day before flying and all through the house… it’s total chaos!  Oops, guess I blew that rhyme.  LOL  So, I have my tickets and main treks locked down.  I am finalizing packing.  Unfortunately I need somewhat different gear for each trek.  So I’ll see how much I can pare down here in a moment.  It did occur to me that I should provide what I have of an itinerary.  It is scant at the moment as I have about 2 weeks to plan once I get to Africa.  So here goes:

Fly out early morning 12/30 arriving 29 hours later in Entebbe, Uganda at 23:00.  I booked an air BnB for the night.  The next day I may remain in Entebbe or move up to Kampala, I am not sure yet.  On Tuesday the 2^nd, I need to be in Kampala to pay for the trek to Mt Stanley.  I’ll probably spend the night there and head to the starting point on the 3^rd.  I am thinking I’ll take a bus rather than hire a car or fly.  That will be an all day trip.  Here are the details on the 1^st climb:

The trek to Margherita peak departs on 5th January 2018.  I am joining a group of 4 other folks I have never met. 

Day  1.  (Jan 5^th)  At Trekkers hostel kilembe the base camp at 1450 meters. briefing from the guides and start the trek to sleep at Sine Camp 2596 meters following a height gain of 1146 meters.

Day  2. Hike to Mutinda camp at 3688 meters, 7km 6 to 7 hrs of walking giving you a height gain of 1092 metres. in the afternoon at Mutinda one may wish to climb up Mutinda look out at 3975 metres of which apart from offering breathtaking views and it gives you good acclimatization since you would be continuing higher to the summit at 5109m 

Day 3. Hike to Bugata camp at 4100 meters, 6.93km 4 to 6hours of walking with a height gain of 412 meters through the valley of amazingly unique beautiful plant species, streams and waterfalls while we head to Bugata camp at 4100 meters. the trek gets tougher and exhausting with the steep ridges,mud and boggy sections, high steps but the rewards are enormously beautiful.

Day 4. Hike to Hunwick’s camp at 3974 meters, via Bamwanjara pass at 4450meters having excellent views of the main peaks whilst the trek.  6 to 10hrs of walking

Day 5. Hike to Margherita camp at 4485 meters, passing down and across the valley floor to Lake Kitandara which is very stunning with deep water and beautiful vegetation, climbing through Scoot Elliot pass to Margherita camp. 3 to 5 hrs 

Day 6. Wake up at 2:00am and have an early breakfast and setoff to climb Mt Stanley going through its glaciers to the summit of Margherita peak at 5109metres 3.5km, 5 to 7 hours. After the summit we will descend  down to Hunwicks camp at 3974 meters for the night. This is the longest day.4 to 6hours

Day 7. Descend down to Kiharo camp at 3640 meters through Oliver’s pass . overnight at Kiharo camp set in a deep valley with high cliffs and dense vegetation  7 to 10hrs of walking

Day 8. Descend down down hill past the moss covered rocks along rivers and beautiful forests back to the basecamp in Kilembe,13km 7 to 9hrs of walking Debrief and refresh.

I will head back to Kampala on the 13^th.  From the 14^th to the 24^th I have some planning to do.  I am going to visit Zanzibar and possibly go on a safari or two.  Uganda is a great place to see Gorillas and Kenya is fantastic for big game and the savanna.  After bouncing around East Africa for a bit I have to be in Moshi, Tanzania on the 24^th.  My Kilimanjaro trek begins the following day.  Here is the itinerary:

Day 1 : 25^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Lemosho Trailhead (2,000m/6,600ft) to Big Tree Camp (2,800m/9,100ft)  

Elevation Gain:  800 metres / 2,500 feet

This morning you will drive from Moshi to the Londorossi gate, taking approximately 3 hours.   Here you will complete entry formalities. From Londorossi your drive continues for around 1 hour to the Lemosho trailhead along a 4WD track. Upon arrival at the trailhead you will eat lunch and then commence trekking through lush undisturbed forest where you may be lucky enough to see Colobus monkeys.  The path undulates, steeply in places, to arrive at the first camp after 3-4 hours of trekking.  Overnight at Big Tree Camp (Mti Mkubwa Camp).

Day 2 : 26^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Big Tree Camp (2,800m/9,100ft) to Shira 1 Camp (3,500m/11,500ft)

Elevation Gain:  700 metres / 2,400 feet

Today your trek will begin in the forest; however you will soon leave this ecosystem behind taking a steep track into a zone of giant heather and volcanic rock.  This is a full day ascending through the lush rolling hills below the Shira Plateau.  Shira is the third of Kilimanjaro’s volcanic cones. It is filled with the lava flow from Kibo and its rim has eroded and been blasted away by weather and volcanic action.  Finally the trail begins to ease as you reach the edge of the plateau.  You will camp at Shira One after 5-6 hours of trekking. The view of Kibo from across the plateau is incredible.

Day 3 : 27^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Shira 1 Camp (3,500m/11,500ft) to Shira 2 Camp (3,800m/12,500ft)

Elevation Gain:  300 metres / 1,000 feet

Your third day on the mountain consists of a trek across the Shira Plateau with an optional climb to Shira Cathedral (3,880m).  Shira is one of the highest plateaus on earth.  The day finishes with a gradual climb to Shira 2 Camp.  Trekking time without the optional excursion is approximately 3 hours.  Including the optional acclimatisation to the peak of Shira Cathedral will add approximately 1 hour.

Day 4 : 28^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Shira 2 Camp (3,800m/12,500ft) to Moir Hut (4,200m/13,800ft) via Lava Tower (4,550m/14,900ft) (optional)

Elevation Gain:  750 metres / 2,400 feet (maximum)

Elevation Loss:  350 metres / 1,150 feet (maximum)

Your climb today will take you steadily up and over the expansive ridgelines of high desert en route to Moir Hut.  If time and fitness allow it would be beneficial to ascend via the Lava Tower as this is a great opportunity to acclimatise. The trek to the base of Lava Tower is about 4 hours.  This tower is a 300 foot high volcanic plug.  If time and energy allow, you can scramble to the top of Lava Tower for fabulous panoramic views.  From Lava Tower head North West beginning your circuit of Kibo, the almighty summit cone of Mount Kilimanjaro.  Moir Hut Camp is an isolated and seldom used camp affording views over the Shira Plateau.  Trekking time approximately 5-7 hours.  An alternative to this route would be to take a gentle ascent across the alpine desert to Moir Hut in the morning and then spend the afternoon on a guided trek of the nearby Lent Group, a series of wind eroded parasite cones and ridges from whose upper slopes you can gaze down to the

plains of Kenya in the north.

Day 5 : 29^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Moir Hut Camp (4,200m/13,800ft) to Buffalo/Pofu Camp (4,020m/13,200ft)

Elevation Loss:  180 metres / 590 feet

Begin the morning trek heading out of the moorland and into the stark alpine desert, on a steep ridge off the main trail, beginning your venture on the Northern Circuit Route.  If you chose not to explore the Lent Group yesterday, take a short detour to the top of Little Lent Hill (3,375m/14,350ft) in the morning before regaining the trail to Buffalo Camp.  The total trekking time today is approximately 5 – 7 hours. 

Day 6 : 30^th Jan : Northern Circuit route

Buffalo/Pofu Camp (4,020m/13,200ft) to Third Cave Camp (3,870m/12,700ft)

Elevation Loss:  150 metres / 500 feet

Proceed onward through valleys and over ridges through the alpine desert and moorland, continuing your circuit to the east.  This rarely travelled route allows you to enjoy the vast mountain wilderness in peace. Trekking time today is 5 - 7 hours.

Day 7 : 31^st Jan : Northern Circuit route

Third Cave Camp (3,870m/12,700ft) to School Huts (4,750m/15,600ft) Elevation Gain:  880 metres / 2,890 feet

Climb steadily to reach the Saddle, a lunar landscape between the peaks of Kibo and Mawenzi. From here, continue upwards to reach School Hut Campsite in the early afternoon. The remainder of the afternoon is spent resting and preparing for summit day, which will begin in the early hours of tomorrow morning.  Trekking time approximately 4-5 hours today.

Day 8 : 01^st Jan : Northern Circuit route

School Huts (4,750m/15,600ft) to Uhuru Peak (5,895m/19,340ft) to Mweka Camp (3,110m/10,200ft)

Around midnight, begin the final ascent to Uhuru Peak, the highest point in Africa. For the next six to eight hours, hike by the light of your flashlight. It can be very cold at night at these elevations, but it will be quite warm by the end of the hiking day and therefore you will want clothing for both extremes. The ascent to the crater rim is the most challenging part of the entire trek. The trail is very steep until you reach the crater rim at Gilman's Point.  The hike from Gilman's to Uhuru Peak is a gradual climb and, as far as hikes go, not very difficult. The altitude however makes the hike long and tiring.  After summit celebrations you will descend to Kibo Huts.  From the summit the descent will take you straight down to Mweka Hut, with lunch served on the way.  This part of the descent takes about 6 hours.  Later in the evening enjoy your last dinner on the mountain and a well-earned sleep. Beer and soda may be available for purchase at Mweka Hut, the only place it is available on this route.

Day 9 : 02^nd Jan : Northern Circuit route

Mweka Camp (3,110m/10,200ft) to Mweka Gate (1,830m/6,000ft)

Elevation Loss:  1,280 metres / 4,220 feet

Descend straight to the gate through lush forest (2-3 hours), looking for monkeys along the way.  Return to Moshi from Mweka Village.

Once back in Moshi I can poke around and relax till the night of the 4^th.  I depart late on the 4^th and arrive back at my least favorite airport just before 1 PM on the 5^th.

All Packed and ready to go!

OK, time to finish packing!