Here we go again.... off into the void!

I am sitting in what appears to be a 3^rd world airline terminal.  We landed on a runway with only about a mile of visibility due to the ever present blowing sand.  It’s really more like brown talcum powder than sand, but whatever.  The runway looks unkempt, weeds growing through the concrete on the shoulders of the taxi ways.  Now inside, the terminal is under construction, I think.  Welcome to Kuwait!  I have never been fond of Kuwait but thought that might be because I had only been on military facilities here.  I can’t say this terminal has helped my perception.  My fellow passengers milling about or slouched in chairs are a mixed bunch… many American’s looking like military of contractors, a fair number of Arabs in traditional Bedouin garb and about a hundred Chinese in cheap suits all seated together.

This is the start of my five hour layover.  I am waiting on Kuwait Airlines to find and weigh my checked bags so I’ll know how many dollars I need to convert to dinars for the excess fees.  I kicked off this portion of my trip at noon on 23 Mar when I departed St. Robert, MO.  If you take that as my start point I will be traveling for about 31 hours when I finally reach my new residence in Islamabad’s Diplomatic Quarter tomorrow morning. 

It’s been a busy 2 ½ months since I came back on active duty.  After a week of initial processing and uniform issue in San Diego I flew off to Wright Patterson Air Force Base near Dayton, Ohio.  That was for a course in Foreign Military Assistance.  After OH I few to Camp McCredy, Fort Jackson, near Columbia, South Carolina.  That is where the Navy goes to learn how to fire and clean M4 carbines (a short M16) and M9 pistols (9mm Beretta’s).  We also received training in exiting rolled over vehicles, battlefield medicine, crew served weapons (machine guns)… all fun stuff.  Most of the time we were wearing full body armor, in the mud firing on the ranges while the temp hovered in the 40’s and heavy drizzle soaked us.  That is training all Navy receive before assignment to CENTCOM, even those heading to Tampa, FL!  I’ve been through it twice now, both times during winter.  From what I have heard you definitely want to attend this training in winter as wearing full armor on a South Carolina summer day is not much fun.  Anyway, my last course was an evasive driving course two hours west of St Louis.  That was the best course I have ever taken while in the military.  They specifically asked we don’t post anything about the course online so I won’t get into details here.  Just know that I now have some skills I have wanted to learn since I began driving! 

Now I am nearly finished with my ramp up to this new position.  Early tomorrow I will finally be in Pakistan.  My predecessor leaves in a week so the turnover will be a bit intense.  It will be nice to get started.  It will be nice to finally have my pay fixed so I get the proper amount and no longer have to juggle finances.  Funny, those whose only knowledge of Pakistan is Fox News or the film Zero Dark Thirty think I am nuts and worry I will be in grave danger.  Since getting these orders I have met a half dozen or so people who have been posted to Pakistan in the past.  Every one of them tells me I will love it.  I am heading in with an open mind.  It is part of the land Kipling wrote about.  I enjoyed my time in Afghanistan I see no reason I won’t enjoy my time in Pakistan.  I’ll find out soon enough.

 

DEPLOYING FOR UNCLE

Funny thing, I began blog entries for my most recent foray into the “Stans” way back last fall.  I didn’t post them as I’ve been struggling with what I want to say and how I wish to say it.  Also, last fall I was updating my government clearance, a very obtrusive affair.  Many of my neighbors and friends were questioned by FBI agents to determine if I was a candidate for blackmail or inclined to sell my country for some coin.  During that process I thought it wise not to exercise my 1^st amendment rights.  While most US citizens have the right to speak as they please, that does not apply to the military.  We must be more cautious.  We can get in trouble if we speak out of turn.  All you civilians out there should take time to thank the military for the right to speak as you please.  It is a privilege we do not enjoy so freely.

Anyway, I now find it’s the beginning of February.  I am in training for a deployment of a year… or two.  I write this from an air force base in Ohio.  I am in training for Security Assistance.  You may ask what that means.  A friend of mine told me “oh, you’re going to be a runner”… meaning gun runner.  Much as that may sound adventurous and sexy the truth is a wee bit more complex (like everything in life).  I will be part of an office that helps nations prevent wars.  How does that work you may ask.  After all won’t you be helping nations arm up?  The mission we will do does involve selling arms but also involves training the host country’s military to be a more professional force.  The hope is that by assisting our friends to be properly protected and able to interact seamlessly with our military forces we will make wars less likely. 

OK, OK, I know what you may be thinking… friends like Iran, Libya, Iraq, South Vietnam, gee those did not turn out so swell.  True enough but the most important aspect of our mission is building relationships with our foreign counterparts.  The military in many countries is extremely influential.  If we are able to build close ties we improve the chance we can have a positive impact on regional developments that help forestall wars.  I’m heading to a crucial part of the world that could devolve and end quite badly.  That would be a shame and I am happy to be part of the effort to keep that from happening.  So while you enjoy the opportunity to protest, speak your mind, to spend time with family and friends, I join the large number of military and state dept personnel stationed in faraway lands.  It’s a dirty job but someone has to do it.  

  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1g9PFtSCKw

Cherry Blossoms and Empires

The cherry blossoms are in full bloom. The weather has warmed up. The grass is beginning to turn green. Today we had a huge thunderstorm. Spring has arrived to the Kanto Plain. It seems fitting that, with the change from winter to spring, the Joint Support Force for Operation Tomodachi begins to draw down. Many personnel have departed already. The main focus of operations is now transition. Not a simple return to the USFJ structure pre-quake, instead a slightly beefed up HQ will remain. The need remains for better consequence management for US bases here on Honshu.

We have done some good work here both is providing humanitarian assistance as well as assisting the government of Japan with options for managing the disaster at Fukushima. Having lived in Japan for a number of years I was more than happy to jump into this fray. But… still having such a large force in Japan so long after 1945 is a bit disconcerting. It is yet more proof that the US is an empire. During the operation, personnel had to be reminded repeatedly to remove the word “Foreign” from “Foreign Humanitarian Assistance” in briefings. The correct term was to be simply “Humanitarian Assistance”. After all, we are the foreigners here, we should not be briefing the Japanese, stating we are providing Foreign Humanitarian Assistance. Walking the halls of USFJ I have glanced numerous times at the paintings that line the walls. They are like the paintings in any military HQ. Tonight though, it struck me how bizarre it must be for the Japanese SDF Officers walking these halls. We are in Japan and lining our walls are paintings of Navy Wildcat fighters scrambling on Saipan to attack the Japanese as well as Naval engagements from the Pacific war. I suddenly wondered how the Japanese must feel seeing paintings of their defeat on proud display in their own country. Only an empire would have the balls to pull that.

Random Thoughts about Japan during Operation Tomodachi

And my food for today you ask? Yesterday on my way back to base after practicing Tai Chi by the river I stopped by a bread shop and picked up a blueberry pastry and then headed over to Seiju Dept Store. Like most large Japanese Dept stores the
first floor is a grocery store. I picked out a ramen sandwich, a small serving of sticky rice topped with salmon and black sesame, a bowl of siamen noodles and a pack of Mochi pastries. I am about the only one here than brings my own lunch. I also brought a liter of water a Georgia MAX Coffee (can of coffee made by Coke) and a Japanese energy drink: Oronami C Drink. This is pretty typical. I figure since I’m over here I should eat off the economy as much as possible. It beats eating mid-rats at the galley. I can only eat so many ham and cheese omelets, chicken cordon blue and canned/frozen carrots, Brussels sprouts, squash, etc. About the only
really stellar food at the galley is the soft serve ice cream, or as one of my friends refers to it… auto dog.
Just before I finished my watch yesterday I was having a conversation with toe people on the oncoming watch. One is a LtCOL that is part of the full time USFJ staff. He is one of the people who was scrambling to react to the emergency from day 1 and attempting how to organize all the augmentees before JTF 519 showed up two weeks later. Talking to him I realized all my frustration with JTF 519 should be set aside. My real focus needs to be on USFJ and providing them feedback necessary to move ahead of this as an organization. I have seen how the JTF works in crisis and am not impressed. USFJ on the other hand has done amazingly well considering their significant limitations. So for my last week here that will be my focus.
Just had another earthquake (I wrote that a few days ago). It didn’t shake much. I was looking at my computer screen and it seemed as if my vision were a bit off. Then I realized it was a small tremor…at least small here at Yokota. Well it turns out the “little” quake was a 7.4 off Sendai! Luckily it was 40 km deep so hopefully it won’t cause another submarine landslide and tsunami. Well it’s been a half hour and no tsunami so we’re good! Peoples reaction to this post on FB has been amusing. Some are amazed that a 7.4 could be considered an aftershock or can’t understand my understated reaction. Seriously though it was no big deal way down here in Yokota. The shaking was nominal. 40 Km deep is really very deep. My personal worry is for Alaska and California. We’ve had multiple quakes around the edges of the Pacific plate (Chili, New Zealand, Baja California, Japan and major volcanic developments on Hawaii. It’s clear the plate is making some major movements. Who knows where it will settle out?
More Random Thoughts…

• After my visit to Kamakura I realize just how provincial Fussa is... Too bad.
• When did it become fashionable for Japanese girls to wear incredibly short shorts with stockings in the winter? Isn’t that cold?
• I am amazed how isolated Americans willingly keep themselves when in foreign lands. I was speaking with a Colonel yesterday and mentioned I didn’t want to move to the other side of the base because it’s too far from the main gate. She then asked almost incredulously if I had been off post. WTF? Don’t these people know too much time on post leads to insanity? The really sad part is how common it is for the military to remain voluntarily cooped up on bases.
• Walking around Shinto shrines from the Middle Ages while listening to NIN and Primus is a very surreal experience.

• Japanese are fun people to party with. They have a great since of humor and are quite generous.
• Mr. Donut still makes the most amazing buttermilk old fashioned chocolate dipped donuts on the planet!! They melt in your mouth and are just sweet enough without being sickly. I’ll take one of these over anything Crispy Cream can produce any day!!

• For a people living in very dense towns the Japanese are amazingly well integrated into nature. Community gardens abound, nature trails abound, I am quite content here.

Kamakura, Thank You

Humanity accidentally crept into the operational rhythm here this week. We have been granted a one shift break, possibly our only break. They staggered the days off to minimize the impact and based it on the last time we had a day off. For me it was 6 March, so after working for 27 days, much of it 13+ hour shifts, I had a free day. Now when you are on night shift a free day is an odd bit of time to work with. I figured I could spend a night partying in Tokyo or head down to Kamakura to visit an old shipmate from the USS St Louis. I chose the latter. So after my shift Sunday morning I slept for four hours then got up and headed to the train station.

Kamakura is not all that far from Yokota but with three train changes it still takes more than two hours to get there. Arriving early afternoon with several hours before I was going to meet up with Bill I wandered around a few of the temples and shrines I hadn’t visited in 15 years. Then I found a long hiking trail and took a peaceful walk through the woods. Japan is covered with these trails. Most lead to small shrines at mountain tops. It was a wonderful hike with only a small number of others on the trail. When I finally finished it was time to head to the beach and a liquor store where I was to meet Bill. I found it easily enough and when I approached a Japanese woman met me and excitedly told me Bill was in the back cooking (near as I can tell anyway since I don’t speak Japanese). It was nice seeing an old friend after so long. We eventually headed to the store where several friends were drinking and talking. Apparently they’ve been doing this for years and refused to let the rolling blackouts interfere, good on them!


It’s interesting being thrown into a conversation where very little is being said in English. It certainly helped me to begin remembering what little Japanese I once knew. The really nice thing about being there was hearing how much the Japanese people appreciate all the US Military has done to assist with this catastrophe. As much as I have issues with the way this HQ is being organized and run we really have done a great deal to avert suffering... well perhaps not the HQ but the military in general certainly has.

I spent the night at Bill’s and in the morning I borrowed his beach cruiser and randomly rode around town. For lunch we met back up and ate the best sushi I’ve had since I left Japan back in ’97. Then we had coffee in a local shop and ran into a city council member who also expressed his gratitude. I finally started back around 2:30 and made it just in time for my shift.


That little foray down to Kamakura made all the 13 hour shifts worthwhile. I’m glad I went that route rather than a drunken night in Ropongi or Shibuya. Still… if I have more time off before I depart… I’m thinking Shibuya.

Expat Memories

Yesterday I finally found something I was afraid I’d lost. I rediscovered Japan in a sense. I had about two hours between work and bedtime (10:00 AM). I decided to walk to the river. So I left the base and followed the road past the main train station. It’s interesting seeing how Japanese towns are put together. Lots of small two story houses packed closely together, narrow roads without sidewalks, frequent breaks in the clutter for small community gardens. When I arrived at the river I found there was a small park above the bank with walking trails running both directions. There were only a few old men in the park, some stretching, others chatting with one another. I took the opportunity to practice Tai Chi Chuan. That always relaxes me and generally puts me in a good mood. Tai Chi next to a river is even better.
After exercising I walked along one of the trails for perhaps a mile or two before deciding to head back toward base. On the way I began to rediscover memories. I love the way community gardens are interspersed among the ad-hoc urban sprawl. I wandered into a Buddhist shrine and took some photos. Stores I had forgotten like Sega World, Mos Burgers (home of the awesome yakiniku rice burger) and The Italian Tomato. As I walked and explored I had the feeling of coming home. I was not seeing things as a Giajin, I was seeing the familiar. As much as I stand out among the Japanese I still feel at ease here, at home. I also noticed when off base I automatically bow more and am more polite. Funny how quickly that returns.
So I continue to plug away on the night shift… the 14 hour night shift… but now I know what I need to do in my few free hours away from this office. I need to rediscover my one time home.

Circadian Rhythms

As I lay in my cot this morning I found myself wondering about the hours I’m working and how my body responds to it. Now mind you this morning was 4:30 PM as I woke to get ready for the night shift and a 14 hour day. I’ve not managed more than 6 hours sleep any night since I left the states. As I think back that is about the best I did when shipboard as well. It struck me that when I am working at my civilian job I need at least 7 hours to focus at work. This baffles me a bit. This job is much longer and more stressful than my other job. Why do I require less sleep? In fact why or how was I able to switch gears to nights without missing a beat? Odd.
The focus here at Op Tomodachi HQ is shifting, finally. What we all recognized at the working level is finally being voiced at the flag level… well at least an aspect of it is. The HA/DR mission here is evaporating as the Government of Japan has increased ability to distribute aid. We are still in the thick of it for the remediation of nuclear disaster though. So, what do you do with a growing organization when the main focus of your efforts begins to melt away like so many spent fuel rods. Well you invent a mission of course! We are beginning to focus on plans for worst case scenarios. Now, before you go off the deep end, please remember worst case by definition is a VERY unlikely event. It assumes all hell breaks loose. If we get asked tomorrow what contingency plans we have for the arrival of Godzilla it wouldn’t surprise me at all. What we are considering is, if some of the reactors go into full melt mode and spew nasty little isotopes, and the wind shifts and blows out of the N.E. for days what will we do about all the military personnel stationed on the Kanto Plain. This is probably useful from a planning standpoint but from experience we have never funded a worst case scenario plan. It’s rather like stocking you very own bomb shelter with enough food to outlast a Dr Strangelove scenario… interesting academic exercise but no, not gonna throw cold hard cash at that!

Not sure where this leaves me and my peers wondering about the end of this operation. It seems to me to be something of a “make work” plan to keep us gainfully employed while they decide when it is politically acceptable to admit that the Japanese don’t need us as much as we’d like to think they do. In the mean time I’ll continue plugging away in this zone where days loose shape and sleep seems unimportant.