Terminal Travel

Gee, I guess I get to write this post again.  I was about finished when my tablet dumped it.  I shouldn't be surprised.  It is a qurter to three.  We are still in the terminal at Kathmandu waiting to hear if our flight is canceled for the day.  It seems the airstrip at Lukla is small, at the edge os a cliff and has no radar.  Flights in and out are by visual control only.  So here we sit.  Since 6AM.  We are now very well acquainted with this small terminal:  one book stand, one snack shop, one small canteen.  Part of our group appears to have made the first flight.  This is one of the challenges of travel in the high mountains.  In the likely event we end up cancelled we will head back to hotels and try again tomorrow.  If the visibility is still too sketchy tomorrow we may be offered the option of going to helocopter.  That would be a $500 upcharge.  I am not a huge fan of that prospect. 

So this day has proven a challenge to many in the group.  Some are anxious and a bit unhappy.  Some​ take it in stride.  One friend considering her options... rather than a copter and compressed trekking schedule she is thinking of filing a travel insurance claim for the trip and heading to Myanmar.  That may not be a bad option. 

So what have we learned so far today?  The weight allowances are not strictly enforced.  My bags weighed 15.2 kg, my friend MJ's were 16 but another friend's were under 11.   

UPDATE:  Sitting in the room of a hotel in Thamal.  Yup, the flight was cancelled.  We have a meeting tonight at 18:30 to find out about tomorrow and Plan B should the weather in Lukla continue to be uncooperative.  Wish us luck!

Last Minute Preps and Struggles

Today was a day of tours, packing, sorting, repacking, weighing, sorting, repacking, weighing... OK let's  just say I reweighed m stuff about five times today!

This morning we visited the local crematorium.  It's right off the river, there are many temples and lingam.  I took many photos.  And at this point I owe the readers a temporary apology. It looks like I won't be able to use my table to post pics here on the blog.  I haven't figured out how to efficiently resize copies to post here.  So I am sorry about it but I will correct that upon my return to the land of the lost. 

Oh, I began talking about tours.  So we also went to South Asia's largest Buddhist Stupa and a Thankla shop.  I need to head back there when I return from Everest.

OK, now if anyone should be reading this who in considering joining this race in  future years this may interest you.  I thought the 15 kg limit on our bags only applied to our duffle bag since Sherpa's will be carrying those.  apparently the real driver are the restrictions on the aircraft taking us to Lukla to begin the trek.  So it is not a day pack plus 15 kg.  The limit applies to all out baggage.  This is why I have to lug my bags back and forth between my room and the lobby so many times.  The lobby just so happens o have a nic digital scale.  So I removed most of my emergency supplies and sone of my clothes.  The big hit was to my snacks. I brought a bunch of cliff bars and dehydrated bananas for the talking.  After I finally whittled away enough weight to get below 15 kg I took my snacks to the scale and began weighing out snacks.  1st I set aside my race day snacks.  Next my 2 chocolate bars.  Then the bananas .  I finished by adding on enough Cliff bars to max out my allowance... I now have a scant 1 kg of snacks to cover 13 days of hiking.

 

Getting to Nepal

Well this certainly isn't a close destination from LA.  I am somewhere over Southern China, I think.  This is the second leg of my trip.  First I flew from LAX to Gangzhou.  That was about a 15 hour flight.  Yes, it's a long time to spend in an aircraft.  I watched 3 films before finally taking a sleeping pill for the 2nd half of it.  I figured that would help with the jet lag.  When we landed the layover stretched from 2 to 5 hours.  The reasons given were a bit vague but I suspect it had to do with the monsoon.  No matter, it's just part of flying to such locations.  It really helps to have the right attitude for this type of travel.  You can't be too anxious about tight schedules or plans.  It works much better if you can just take things as they come.  Once again that so useful term I learned from the Army springs to mind: embrace the suck.   

Well I don't have pics to post yet.  This city reminds me so much of places in Pakistan.  I wandered around Thamel for a bit.  The trekking gear here is no bargain.  I went looking for a good rain hat only to discover they cost more here then I'd pay back in the USA. 

Oh well.  So what was my first meal here in Nepal you may ask?  I found an Irish bar and had a Guinness and some momo (gyoza).  OK, it`s just past 9 and I am getting a little loopy.  Time for sleep!  zzzzzzz

One World Trekking Itinerary

For those of you really curious about where we will be on any given day below is our itinerary.  I have shortened it a wee bit but it’s still a pretty long read.  Rest assured I will be taking many photos and taking notes. 

I have been asked what I was feeling about this trip and the first answer that sprang to mind is that I feel as if I am going home!  J

Day 1: Arrive in Kathmandu.  Check into hotel.   Brief orientation of the Kathmandu area.  Suck up the jet lag.

Day 2: Morning sightseeing tour around Kathmandu & afternoon race meeting at event hotel.  After breakfast, we’ll have a half-day guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu. Our tour will include visits to a few of the city’s major cultural, religious and historical sites, such as Boudhanath Stupa, the country’s largest Buddhist stupa, the Pashupatinath Temple of Shiva on the banks of Bagmati River which is the holiest Hindu temple in Nepal and the hilltop shrine of Swayambhunath more famously known as the ‘Monkey Temple’. Kathmandu is seeped in medieval history and architecture, where myths and legends blend seamlessly and modernism and traditional coexist in stark harmony.  After lunch, there will be a race meeting in the hotel lobby and briefing on the upcoming trek to the Mount Everest Base Camp and marathon. After the meeting the remainder of the day is free for resting and making final preparations for the journey into the Khumbu.

Day 3: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Phakding Village. Approximately 45 minute flight to Lukla at 9,184 feet followed by a 3 hour hike to Phakding at 8,699 feet.  The group will fly to Lukla on a regularly scheduled commercial plane for the spectacular and panoramic flight north to Lukla. Upon arrival, you will be met by your trekking guide and have some time to enjoy a cup of tea and wander around the village while your Sherpa crew prepares the various loads of group gear for the porters.  The walk to Phakding Village is gradual most of the way, with only a few uphill sections after the Tarhe Khola River, where we get superb views of Kusum Kangru (20,890 feet / 6,369 meters). After crossing a short suspension bridge, we encounter a short climb that brings us to Ghat Village.  Another 1.5 hours of gradual hiking brings us to Phakding Village where we will spend the night at a lodge. Distance: 4.5 miles, Ascent: 590 feet, Descent: 1,675 feet. 

Day 4: To Namche Bazaar. 11,283 feet. 5 to 6 hours of trekking.  Leaving the village of Phakding, and after crossing a suspension bridge spanning the Dudh Kosi River, the walk is pleasant with only a few short, steep uphill and downhill sections. Once we pass through the village of Benkar, there are  magnificent views of Thermasarkhu (21,675 feet / 6,608 meters) and we will now start to encounter other trekking groups on this busy section of trail leading up to the small village of Monjo at 9,200 feet.  A short while out of Monjo we come to the entrance of the Sagarmatha National Park, where our trekking permits will be checked. From here a short descent and a gradual walk brings us to another suspension bridge over the Dudh Kosi River and the village of Jorsalle. This is the last village and the only place to shop until Namche Bazaar.  We now follow a river bed trail to a bridge over the Imja Tse River and then along the winding uphill path to Namche Bazaar. As you climb higher the peaks of Kwangde and Kusum Kangru are seen. Then the Mount Everest-Nuptse Wall, Lhotse and Taweche Peak come into view. A 1 to 2 hour uphill hike brings us to the famed capital of the Khumbu - Namche Bazaar, situated in an impressive U-shaped amphitheater bowl.  Distance: 7.5 miles, Ascent: 3,940 feet, Descent: 1,380 feet.

Day 5: Rest and acclimatization day at Namche Bazaar.  Short hike and sightseeing, we’ll use today for relaxing and gaining some well needed acclimatization. 

Day 6: Trek to Khumjung Village. 12,430 feet. 3 hours of trekking.  After a great time at Namche Bazaar, we continue on a trail taking us above Namche, past the airstrip of Syangboche and on to Khunde and Khumjung in the Green Valley.  Khumjung is the largest Sherpa village in the Khumbu area. The first one and half hours of walking is all uphill and quite strenuous. We’ll have magnificent views of Kwangde, Thermasarkhu and other peaks with an aerial view down to Namche Bazaar. Upon reaching the small airstrip of Syangboche, we make a short climb to the village of Khunde, wonderfully situated beneath the sacred peak of Mount Khumbila. Beyond Khunde, a gentle path leads us to the quiet and sleepy village of Khumjung and our overnight campsite. In the afternoon we can go back to Khunde and visit a hospital built with the help of the Sir Edmund Hillary's Foundation and visit Khumjung’s old monastery, the only place believed to have a Yeti scalp. Khumjung also has a high school built with the help of the Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation.

Day 7: Trek to Deboche. 12,535 feet.  5 hours of trekking.  This morning’s trail is a winding path with great views of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Ama Dablam (the Mother’s Charm). In the village of Shanasa, we have a chance of seeing the colorful Danphe Pheasant, the national bird of Nepal. From Shanasa, the trial descends to the small settlement of Phungitenga (10,660ft), a small settlement with couple of teahouses along the Imja Tse River. The walk from here is gradually uphill along a winding trail for about two hours to Tengboche, one of the most beautiful villages in the Nepal. The first thing that comes to your eye is the big monastery or gompa, then the large field with campsites, teahouses and lodges situated beneath the shapely and beautiful peak of Ama Dablam.  Mount Everest looms in the distance above the Nuptse Wall, Lhotse and Lhotse Shar. A further descent of 30 minutes leads through a beautiful forest of rhododendron, birch and pine to the small hamlet of Deboche. 

Day 8: Trek to Dingboche. 14,432 feet. 5 to 6 hours of trekking.  After a wonderful overnight at Deboche, the trail crosses a small bridge over the narrow gorge of the Imja Tse River and begins its slow uphill journey past a large mani wall gate to upper Pangboche Village and its old monastery. We now have a short climb to our lunch spot at Shomare. After lunch, we continue gradually east towards the towering north face of Ama Dablam. We eventually enter the Imja Tse Valley situated beneath the mighty peaks of Ama Dablam, Nuptse and Lhotse and finally arrive in the village of Dingboche.  Dingboche is a beautiful patchwork of fields enclosed by stone walls that protect the crops of barley, buckwheat and potatoes from the cold winds and grazing animals.  Dingboche has about ten teahouses and lodges and also serves as the gateway to the Chhukung and Hinko valleys as well as the world’s fifth highest mountain – Makalu.

Day 9: Acclimatization day at Dingboche.  An optional day for a hike. The walk to Chhukung Village at (15,514 feet) is a worthwhile objective and takes about 3 to 4 hours.  Chhukung is home to about five teahouses overlooking the snow capped peaks and glaciers of Lhotse, Ama-Dablam and Imja Glacier. Chhukung is the last inhabited settlement in eastern Khumbu.

 Day 10: Trek to Lobuche. 16,164 feet. Via Dugla. 5 hours of trekking.  From Dingboche our trail leads us north with the path ascending gradually for about 40 to 50 minutes as you approach a stupa with mani prayer wheels. From here it’s a gentle trail across a rock-strewn meadow overlooking Pheriche Village, situated at an elevation of 14,009 feet. After a pleasant walk of 1.5 to 2 hours the trail reaches Dugla (also shown on maps as Thugla) after crossing a small wooden bridge over the raging Khumbu glacial river. From here a steep 1 hour walk will take us to a resting spot that showcases Everest and other prominent neighboring Himalayan peaks. A gradual ascent of 1.5 to 2 hours brings us to Lobuche. The village actually comes as some surprise, as Lobuche is a very tiny yak herder settlement, well hidden and sheltered from the wind. Distance: 5 miles, Ascent: 2,100 feet.

Day 11: Trek to Gorakshep at 16,990 feet.  Optional hike up Kala Pattar (18,200 feet) in the afternoon.  We spend the first hour of hiking gradually gaining elevation along a wide grassy field. At the end of the grassy field, we encounter a short steep climb of about 20 minutes and then continue along the side of the Khumbu Glacier on a straight-forward rocky moraine path. Topping out on the last uphill section, the fabulous mountain setting makes us realize why we came! We are now what seems to be a stones throw from Mount Everest, Nuptse and the domed summit of Pumori.  Gorakshep is a small cluster of lodges and teashops situated on a flat and rocky field below the famous viewpoint peak of Kala Pattar. Back in the early 1950s, Gorakshep served as the base camp for many Everest Expeditions.  After settling in and having lunch, the day’s adventure continues with a hike (optional) to Kala Pattar, the famous viewpoint peak on the southwest ridge of Mount Pumori.  After a short stroll out of camp, you begin a steep 45 minute climb to a level bench.  From this bench, it is about 1.5 to 2 hours to the top. The hard effort will be worth it.  Standing on top, with hundreds of prayer flags flying, the small rocky summit of Kala Pattar overlooks the towering face of Mount Pumori. Across the glacial valley, Everest looks within a stones throw away, situated majestically between the summit of Nuptse and Lhotse. Take lots of photos before we begin the descent back to Gorakshep and our lodge.

Day 12: Rest and acclimatization day at Gorakshep. Optional hike up Kala Pattar (18,200 feet).  A full day at 16,990 feet for rest and acclimatization.

Day 13: Continue to Mount Everest Base Camp and Khumbu Icefall at 17,515 feet. 3 to 4 hours of trekking.  Today is a BIG DAY, as we trek to the foot of the world’s highest mountain!  Our adventure continues to Everest Base Camp and the Khumbu Icefall. Once out of Gorakshep, the path can be misleading, so please follow your Sherpa guides. Every year the trail changes some due to the movements of the glacier. The hike from Gorakshep to Base Camp is short but is quite strenuous due to the high altitude.  During our visit, Everest Base Camp will be quite lively with commotion as this is the high expedition season. Upon reaching the foot of The Big E, a great view of the Khumbu icefall awaits you. After some time visiting this historic place, we will settle into our camp for the next two nights. For those of you not making it to Kala Pattar yesterday afternoon, you will have a chance to do so early this morning before heading the Everest Base Camp. 

Day 14: At Everest Base Camp.  This is our preparation and acclimatization day at Everest Base Camp for tomorrow’s trail running challenge. A short practice run will be held after breakfast with runners fully attired and in their official marathon t-shirt for our group photo. Later in the day we will be joined by a number of Nepali runners running in the marathon.

MAY 29: Day 15: RACE DAY! The Tenzing-Hillary Everest Marathon We’ll receive an early wakeup call for breakfast. Around first light, at 7am, the starting gun goes off and you begin by negotiating the first 5K section of the run across Khumbu Glacier to Gorakshep. This will prove to be the most difficult section of the race underfoot and trail conditions improve from here. By the time you reach the halfway point at Orsho, you’ll definitely begin to notice the thicker air (more oxygen) and this should come as a big mental and physical boost. The next big challenge will be the 1,650 foot climb from the bridge at Phungitenga (Mile 21) to Khunde Village.  The trail now continues downhill via the Hillary School and Syangboche Village to the finishing banner at Namche Bazaar.  Each runner’s personal baggage will be brought from Everest Base Camp to Namche Bazaar by our porters who will arrive later today.  Note: The marathon course includes a 6K loop from Dingboche to Bibre en route to Namche Bazaar.

Day 16: To Monjo. 9,299 feet. 3 to 4 hours of trekking.  After a late breakfast, we’ll have a leisurely, mostly downhill walk to Monjo. 

Day 17: Trek to Lukla. 9,184 feet. 5 hours of trekking.  The last day of this great trek has arrived.  On this good path to Lukla, you can walk at your own pace and enjoy the scenery and small villages. Apart from few short uphill sections, the only long climb will be just before reaching Lukla (of course!) and will take approximately 45 minutes from a place called Choplung. Tonight at our lodge we’ll enjoy a celebratory ‘Thank You’ dinner with our Nepali staff.

Day 18: Fly to Kathmandu. Hotel.  Our flights back to Kathmandu are usually scheduled for the morning. Upon arriving back at the Kathmandu domestic terminal, you will be met by our local agent and transferred back to the group hotel. 

Day 19: Free day in Kathmandu. Group celebration dinner.  Today you are free to spend as you wish.  One suggestion is to wander the maze of streets in Thamel to people watch, souvenir shopping or just drink a beer at a rooftop restaurant. In the evening we will have a group celebration dinner. This day may also be needed as cushion in case the flight from Lukla is delayed. We don’t want to miss our international connections.

Nepal and Everest Base Camp???

 I am now less than 1 week away from flying to Kathmandu, Nepal.  It’s been a lifelong ramp up to this excursion.  I didn’t really appreciate that until a few days ago.  I recall being quite young and thinking that one day I would see Mount Everest.  Then there was the family friend who used to entertain us at holiday events with amazing slide shows of his travels to the Valley of the Kings and other amazing places.  I always envied his travels.  I used to tell myself that I would one day do that.

I hadn’t thought of either of these things until a few days ago.  It was probably a year ago that my friend MJ told me she was going to run a marathon in Nepal and this I should join her.  Not just a marathon mind you but one that begins near the Khumbu ice fall.  I laughed and told her I gave up running back in college.  She was persistent though.  She insisted because I hike and climb mountains I would be fine.  I finally looked up info on this crazy race last fall.  There are a small number of runners completing it in under 5 hours.  Most of them are Nepali military.  A good number of participants take 10 to 13 hours to finish.  When I read that my first thought was: I can do Mt Whitney in 12 hours from the portal to the summit and back.  And that hike climbs more than 6,000 ft. and is 22 miles long.  This “run” would be less than 2,000 ft. of climbing and only 4 miles further.  Suddenly this looked quite reasonable.  Suddenly I no longer had an argument.  OK, count me in!

So this blog is intended to become an account of my trip.  Some people are worried about me but if you look back at the beginnings of this blog, Nepal seems to sedate compared to Bagram, Kabul, the Salang Pass, Rawalpindi. 

A few days ago did my last training hike: Mount San Gorgonio, 18.5 miles and 5,800 ft of elevation gain, a beautiful day and a wonderful hike.  Didn’t need the crampons or ice axes we brought, but better to have them and not need them then to need them and not have them.

I don’t know how much net connectivity I’ll have, but I will do my best to chronicle this adventure.  It’s going to be different using a small tablet to type things out.  I am also using a new camera and hope to get some amazing pics as well.  It’s hard to imagine not taking amazing pics in the Himalayas.  I could probably take a Kodak Instamatic and get amazing photos!  

https://www.oneworldtrekking.com/all-trips/341-tenzing-hillary-everest-marathon-nepal.html

Bomb Blast in Islamabad F6 Markaz

Looks like a rest day today, sort of.  We were supposed to do a NEO drill today.  Now, least you go off on a flight of fancy wondering what type of a drill might be used by the protagonist of the Matrix series, allow me to explain.  A NEO is a non-combatant evacuation order.  It is when an embassy sends everyone but key personnel home to the US.  Our office was doing this, as we do several times a year, just to be prepared.  We didn’t tell the rest of the Embassy we were running this drill so as not to alarm them.  In the past week the Pakistan Military has become very active in pursuing insurgents.  They have hit them hard in Miranshah.  So it seemed like a good time to run a NEO drill as retaliatory attacks in the major cities were expected.  So, I was expecting a click-a-tel (text) this morning around 07:00 telling us that the exercise was underway and to come to work with our go-bags (bags of essentials used when making a hasty exit).  Instead, I woke up when my alarm went off and saw a text much earlier than expected: 05:15.  The text mentioned staying in our homes because of multiple bomb blasts around the city.  I found it odd that it didn’t begin with the words EXERCISE, EXERCISE, EXERCISE.  Then I noted it was form the Embassy and not from our office.  I immediately went online to check the news and yes indeed, two bombs went off early in the morning.  One in sector G9, an area I rarely go to; the other in F6 Market, near where I was at last night.  F6 is where most of the shops I frequent are located.  The news is still sparse but from what I’ve been able to read so far it appears some dumb ass was planting a bomb at 02:00 when confronted by a security guard.  The bomb detonated killing the miscreant and injuring the guard.  At the moment we are restricted to our homes.  Travel is allowed only for essential personnel and then only in hard cars (bullet/bomb proof vehicles). 

 

It will be interesting to see how my last few weeks here play out.  I expect more incidents will occur as the TTP become increasingly desperate.  We don’t know right now if the military actions in the tribal areas are the start of a major offensive, like they executed in Swat in ’09, or simply more of the surgical strikes they have been performing.  Either way, the targeted assaults are welcome.  The Pakistani  military despise the Taliban.  Too many in this country have died at their hand.  Far more than the US has lost in Afghanistan. 

 

These are serious times for Pakistan.  These are serious times for the entire region.  I pray the US does not foolishly abandon Pakistan as we withdraw from Afghanistan. After living here for over a year I feel a sense of belonging.  I have friends here.  I know that the majority of the population does not want religion forced upon them, even as they are deeply committed to Islam.  Despite what the West may think Islam is not a violent religion.  Wahhabism may well be but to lump all Muslims in with the Wahhabis is to lump all Christians in with the Westboro Baptist Church!          

Taxila, Gandhara's Capitol